Essays on art, history and interpretation

The fourth day concludes our journey from Karlshamn to Kalmar. The road is lined with historical sites and new discoveries. We visit Ronneby Brunn, a 18th-century spa, and Kristianopel, a Danish fortress. At Kalmar Castle, we witness Sweden’s might during the Great Power Era.

Day four, and it’s time to head home. Leaving Karlshamn feels a bit sad. I wish I had spent more time reliving those cherished memories. Unlike our previous journey, this time we took the coastal road along the east coast. The route here was more inland, traversing the entire length of this vast country.

The journey home offers two exciting perspectives. Firstly, embracing the variation along the coastal road adds a refreshing twist to our travels. Secondly, it presents a wonderful opportunity to explore additional historical sites. Each site along the way is eager to share its stories. These stories promise to enrich our understanding of history. They also ignite our curiosity.

I find myself pondering several questions: What have they conveyed to us visitors? What is genuinely new, and what do we already find all too familiar? Are there any genuine historical or lived experience connections between them, or is it merely a pretense?

Ronneby Brunn

The first place we stopped at wasn’t particularly spectacular. There was a park, a beach, and a hotel with some older historical buildings, in my opinion. But…

Ronneby Brunn, a park with over 300 years of history, is one of Blekinge’s renowned landmarks. It boasts lush green spaces, ancient trees, and charming wooden structures dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. The park’s significance grew further in 1705. The first health spring was discovered then. This discovery transformed it into Sweden’s largest spa resort during the 19th century.

Brunnsparken, a protected heritage site since 1996 and a cultural reserve since 2003, boasts a rich history. It once featured bathing houses, a spring hall, and a grand hotel. Although the park declined in the 20th century and spa activities ceased, it preserved many significant historical buildings. Today, Brunnsparken remains an important cultural heritage site and recreational destination.

We had a delightful stroll through the park, surrounded by the charm of old buildings. We received an inspiring tip. Eagerly, we set off to explore the enchanting place known as Kristianopel. It is not far from our location.

Kristianopel

We decided to take a different route and bypassed the national road to Karlskrona. Instead, we opted for smaller, more challenging roads. However, we couldn’t help but wonder if we truly needed to take this detour. Now that we’ve arrived in Kristianopel, we can’t help but wonder about the significance of this place. What do the so-called historians have to say about it?

Kristianopel was established in 1600 during the reign of King Christian IV. It stands as the first Renaissance city in the Nordic region. It was designed as a border stronghold against Sweden. The city boasted a rectangular street layout. It was fortified by a wall with nine bastions. By the 1660s, its population had reached approximately 600.

The city underwent reconstruction after an incursion by troops led by Gustav II Adolf in 1611. The Treaty of Roskilde in 1658 reduced its strategic importance. As a result, the walls were dismantled during the 18th century. Throughout the 19th century, the city’s economy thrived through fishing, trade, and various crafts. The restoration of the walls took place in the 1930s.

Here’s what I discovered about this location. It has limited remaining structures. However, don’t be deceived into thinking there’s nothing to explore. Delve into its history, and you’ll uncover a treasure trove of hidden stories waiting to be revealed. And of course, there’s an intriguing connection to the next historical site.

We were eagerly on our way to our next destination, our hunger fueling our anticipation. As we journeyed, we crossed a captivating historic border between Denmark and Sweden. It was incredible to contemplate Kristianopel, a city that once belonged to Denmark until the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658. Today, Kristianopel stands as a testament to the past. In contrast, Kalmar Castle proudly displayed the rich history of the Swedish side.

We’ve found ourselves in Kalmar, Sweden, at one of its most well-preserved castles, dating back to the 12th century.

Kalmar Castle

Kalmar Castle, a magnificent testament to history, was constructed in the late 11th century. By the end of the 12th century, it had undergone a transformation, adorned with imposing fortifications and majestic buildings. Beyond its architectural grandeur, the castle served as a vibrant hub of Nordic political intrigue. Its pivotal role in shaping the Kalmar Union in 1397 underscores its significance in the region’s history.

This era is filled with the fervor of the Swedish Middle Ages. It is characterized by the rise and fall of kings. The fierce brotherly bonds echo through time. Among the notable events of this period is the legendary Nyköping Banquet held in 1317 in my beloved hometown, Nyköping. This banquet was a true feast of history and passion, leaving an indelible mark on the annals of time.

During the 1500s and 1600s, Kalmar Castle underwent grand Renaissance renovations, adding impressive new wings and towers. This era also witnessed the rise of Kristianopel across the border. However, in the 1600s and 1700s, the castle began to deteriorate and was partially repurposed as a prison and distillery. By the mid-19th century, extensive restoration work commenced. Since then, Kalmar Castle has proudly stood as one of Sweden’s best-preserved Renaissance castles.

In the evenings, you can enjoy free entry, allowing you to leisurely explore the castle’s charming inner courtyard. However, all exhibitions are closed during this time. The cannon-adorned ramparts may not offer much to see. However, it’s still worth visiting the exhibitions within the castle during the day. Remember, there’s a ticket price of 180 kr per adult (approximately 19 usd). Despite the ticket price, the enriching experiences inside truly make it worthwhile.

We paid our entrance fee and, with growling stomachs, ventured into the endless exhibitions within the castle. The exhibits were overwhelming, and the sheer number of them made it difficult to navigate. In each room, I couldn’t resist snapping photos and immersing myself in the charged historical atmosphere that lingered. Despite our efforts, we left the dining hall and kitchen feeling unsatisfied, if anything, we were left ravenous. The castle was the epicenter of power for kings and dukes. Among them, Erik XIV stood out as the most notable. We felt like mere shadows in his grand tale.

Journey home

If we were feeling tired, it’s understandable. The journey ahead is long, and more than half the distance remains. This means we’ll have a few more hours in the car along the E22. A cozy nap in the bed above would be a welcome relief, but of course, that might attract some attention. We’ll have the chance to rest when we finally get home and have satisfied our hunger.

Then, we can fully recharge for all the incredible adventures that await us just around the corner! A vibrant blend of art, culture, and magnificent architecture beckons us, eager to ignite our creativity in extraordinary ways. There are numerous castles and enchanting locations. Poetic experiences are also on the horizon. This presents the ideal opportunity to immerse ourselves once more.

I’m eager to rekindle the original essence of this blog. I embarked on this artistic journey 15 years ago, brimming with excitement to share my insights with you. While I’ve shared some fascinating content, I recognize that there are countless remarkable discoveries yet to be made. It’s time to bring these reflections back into the limelight!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-30

• https://www.ronneby.se/download/18.3f1be5e517943c796c3b606f/1620977903187/Broschyr%2020210511.pdf
• https://www.visitkarlskrona.se/en/kristianopel
• https://kalmarslott.se/en/

The journey south culminates in Karlshamn, the city where it all began. Familiar streets and buildings evoke cherished memories. Museums narrate the city’s rich history, from 18th-century trading houses to its peak in margarine and punch.

The primary reason for my trip to southern Sweden was to visit family and friends. Additionally, I was eager to explore the region’s historical sites.

Another purpose of the trip was to joyfully revisit the city where I lived for a few wonderful years. It’s where I attended high school and proudly graduated. In Karlshamn, cherished memories resurface, and the vibrant history of the city comes alive.

The questions that plagued me were: What are there to revisit? What can I share with others? What is new, or what have I overlooked?

The square retains its original charm, with the ground, town hall, and church remaining unchanged. They seem frozen in time, like a time capsule. The kiosk in the center now boasts a stylish facade, possibly auditioning for a reality show. One end used to house a Pressbyrån, where you could quickly grab a sandwich. The other end had a sausage stand, the town’s best-kept secret! Now, it’s an Espresso House. Who needs bratwurst when you can indulge in lattes? You can even attempt to decipher macchiatos from flat whites. It’s a minor change, but it adds a touch of modernity to the square.

Everything else was just as I remembered—like a time capsule that had missed the memo about modernization. A church and an old Town Hall still stood, presumably unaware of the need for renovations. The school remained, like an overprotective parent. Stepping back felt like a high school reunion in the 1990s. Yes, my childhood home stood next to the emigration monument, likely rolling its eyes at all the nostalgia.

There were no significant changes to note. My anecdotes from that time reignited memories for my fellow travelers. Nothing new under the sun. This was true in many places. The police station, hospital, and dentist were all located in the same spot.

The variety of shops, restaurants, and residential areas feels refreshingly new. Even McDonald’s has made its way here. It wasn’t here when I lived here. It’s been 30 years since I moved away, and everything has undergone its own unique transformation. The butter factory is no longer standing, and the harbor warehouse where Motörhead performed in December 1993 is also gone. That was the same year I graduated.

It’s comforting to know that my partner has a deeper appreciation for the diverse cultural offerings. I can still recall my younger self in Karlshamn over 30 years ago, when museums weren’t even on my radar. I was just a wandering teenager, trying to find my place in the world.

With a single ticket, you can visit three different museums in the city. First, head to Skottberg’s Farm shop, a well-preserved general store that has been trading since 1766 until 1945. The rooms filled with furniture and furnishings transport you back in time. The general store is particularly interesting.

We had more museums to visit, of course. Another thing I missed while living in the city was that the ticket price included three museums. The second one was the city museum. Surprisingly, it looked small from the outside, but inside, the exhibitions seemed endless.

There were room after room, exhibition after exhibition, and a journey through the city’s rich history. This city had accomplished so much throughout its long history, and I was eager to explore it all. There were a few sights I was familiar with from my stay in the city in the 1990s. But there were also things that I had no idea about, and I was excited to discover them.

Once upon a time, I was aware that typewriters were manufactured here. The factory likely succumbed to the advent of the computer era. The brand was Facit-Halda. I even owned a Facit typewriter myself. I can almost picture myself sitting at a small table with a window, overlooking a breathtaking mountainous landscape. There, I would immerse myself in writing a novel. Imagine the experience of using such an old typewriter. Feel the satisfying clatter of keys as you fill the paper with words and meaning.

They also produced butter here. Most people who have lived in modern times are aware of this. As a child, I recall hearing advertisements for Karlshamn’s margarine on TV. The two farmer brothers would utter the phrase “Gott, Gotti gott gott” in the ad. In English, it translates to “Tasty, yummy, yummy.”

The commencement of granite slab production at this location marked its international debut. It played a significant role in constructing the esteemed US Marine Corps War Memorial. The memorial is located at Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia. This memorial serves as a tribute to all who have served in the Marine Corps since 1775.

Granite was supplied by AB A.K. Fernströms Granitindustrier, a Swedish stone industry company based in Karlshamn. The site offered a plethora of attractions, including a museum that I vaguely recall visiting in the past. This museum, aptly named the Punch Museum, holds a special place in Karlshamn’s history. The city has long been renowned for its punch. Its origins date back to 1815.

It was a quick museum visit, just like this post. I headed back to the harbor. The area has changed with new road constructions and a slightly different appearance. It’s not quite how I remember it from when I lived here. Reliving the city was enjoyable and refreshing. I’ll definitely return someday. The rest of the day was spent hanging out with family and having a meal at some restaurants in Sölvesborg.

Tomorrow, we embark on an exhilarating journey homeward, but this adventure is far from over! Along the way, we’ll encounter a treasure trove of historic sites, each with its own captivating story to share. Prepare to be enthralled by the tales that lie ahead…

…until we meet again.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-20

• https://karlshamnsmuseum.se/haldafabriken/
• https://karlshamnsmuseum.se/skottbergska-garden/skottsbergska-garden-handelsboden/
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_Corps_War_Memorial
• https://karlshamnsmuseum.se/punschmuseet/

The journey continues to Kåseberga, where the landscape meets the sea, and history’s winds blow. At Ales stenar, we discover Sweden’s largest presterade ship setting, a place steeped in myth and archaeology. The trip along the coast takes us to Simrishamn. We then head to Karlshamn. In these places, memories and the scent of the sea linger in the air.

The journey continues! We spent a few hours exploring the charming cobblestone streets of Ystad. After that, we headed to Ales Stenar, a short distance away. Now, let me explain Ales Stenar in a simple and engaging manner, without boring you.

Ales stenar, a towering structure situated a few miles away, stands amidst hundreds of people. Several hang gliders gracefully circled above us, making it a popular destination for gliding from the cliffs.

From an overcrowded parking lot, the road to the site stretched nearly a kilometer. The narrow path was bustling with visitors jostling to reach the top, while others hurried back to their cars.

What are Ales stenar, then? It’s a ship setting comprising 59 stones, each weighing approximately 5 tons. The formation measures approximately 67 meters in length and 19 meters in width, making it Sweden’s largest preserved ship setting. The stones date back to the Vendel period (around 540–790 AD). They are made of granite and sandstone. At the front, there is a prominent white quartzite stone. Despite the absence of a grave, its purpose remains uncertain, but it is widely regarded as a grave monument.

It didn’t seem to end there, and I suppose we weren’t going home just yet. They claimed that a fishing harbor lies along the narrow path down from the 32-meter high cliff. There are fishing shacks, restaurants, and a dock—if you can call it that. We wandered there. I guess we decided to try the local cuisine. We especially wanted to taste the smoked fish in all its supposed forms.

The intoxicating aroma of smoked fish mingled with the invigorating scent of the sea as we strolled along the quay. Every tempting offering for tourists beckoned us, sparking our curiosity. We lost track of time at the magnificent Ales stones for two hours. Afterward, we set off in our car.

Excitement bubbled within us as we drove towards Simrishamn. Finally, we returned to Karlshamn, where I spent cherished years of my youth in high school. This journey was steeped in history. It became a profound exploration of time. It echoed my personal history and the tales of ages past.

Exciting details await in the next part!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-18

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ale%27s_Stones
• https://www.visitystad.se/en/kaseberga-alesstenar
• https://visitskane.com/classic-attractions/ales-stones

The journey traverses southern Sweden, beginning at Gränna’s peppermint hills and culminating at the Brahehus ruins. It then proceeds to Ystad’s cobblestone streets and Ales stenar. This journey intricately weaves together landscapes, history, and the echoes of exploration.

Growing up in this expansive country, I embarked on countless long journeys. This time, my heart guided me south and back, embarking on a thrilling adventure. From a map’s perspective, it’s a mesmerizing journey south, followed by a dramatic U-turn back to the north. This encapsulates the essence of exploration.

We spent five exhilarating hours in the car, the enchanting scent of peppermint candies wafting through the air in Gränna. The breathtaking ruin of Brahehus stood proudly, marking our journey through the captivating southern parts of Sweden.

From the charming towns of Ystad and Simrishamn, we embark on a thrilling journey to Karlshamn. Every moment beckons us onward, leading us to the picturesque east coast.

Nestled between the city’s charming cobblestone streets, I find myself in a small square, feeling like Kurt Wallander. He joyfully strolled on the vibrant streets of Ystad. He dedicated his efforts to the city’s busy police station. Together, these actions fostered a sense of community and connection.

The fictional criminal inspector Kurt Wallander is the protagonist of Henning Mankell’s delightful detective novels. He has enthusiastically solved murder mysteries in fiction. These mysteries unfold right here in the city. As I savor my potato salad, I eagerly chew and reminisce about the exciting books. They feature the opera enthusiast who tackles case after intriguing case.

I’ve delved into several of the books, and naturally, I’ve been captivated by the TV series inspired by them. Countless episodes have come to life right here, filling the air with intrigue and suspense.

Let’s delve back into that captivating city. It is where Inspector Kurt Wallander roamed the streets. He meticulously unraveled the intricate puzzles of murder. What precisely makes this city so extraordinary and etched in our memories?

The captivating style of the houses set against the sea enthralls me. Ferries conveniently transport you to Poland, Germany, and Bornholm from this picturesque location. The abundance of half-timbered houses, each a testament to timeless craftsmanship, evokes a rich history. Timber beams splinter the landscape, supporting structures filled with brick or stone. These structures weave a captivating story of beauty and resilience.

Architectural history reveals resource variations across different regions of the country during the early Middle Ages. Some areas had abundant stone, while others had more wood. Consequently, wooden houses became prevalent in Norrland, a region with extensive forests. In contrast, southern Sweden, particularly Gotland, faced limited wood availability. This scarcity necessitated the increased use of brick and stone in construction. Gotland serves as a prime example of this trend.

Ystad has origins dating back to the medieval period. It boasts a remarkable monastery and garden. These are must-visit attractions. During our tour, we explored both the monastery and the garden. They are among Sweden’s finest examples of well-preserved medieval monastic establishments. The monastery was established around 1267 by Franciscan monks, known as Greyfriars. However, after the Reformation, it underwent various transformations. It was repurposed for different purposes. These purposes included serving as a hospital and a prison.

Today, it serves as a museum and cultural center. It features a renowned garden. The exhibitions showcase the city’s rich history.

We didn’t have time for distractions like the museum or cultural center; we were completely focused on Ales stenar, a place of immense significance that won’t be overlooked 😉

I’m thrilled to delve deeper into the subject in the upcoming segment!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-16

References

• https://www.visitsmaland.se/en/destinations/granna/
• https://jonkopingslansmuseum.se/se-och-gora/smultronstallen/jonkoping/brahehus/

Stora Sundby castle stands like a dream from fairy tales, just an hour and a half from everyday life. Behind its walls are centuries of power and love. The castle changed from a medieval fortress to a romantic place with 365 windows. A meeting with the architecture of time.

On the menu today was Stora Sundby Castle! It is located in my county, which sparks a sense of longing for home! It’s just a drive of 1 hour and 30 minutes. I felt the anticipation grow along the way there. I was determined to absorb everything the guide had to share!

In the castle resides the fourth generation of the Klingspor family, which unfortunately makes photography within these historic walls prohibited. The castle, younger than the earlier one we visited, still carries a rich history from the 13th century. The biggest challenge during the visit was the brilliant sunshine, which created a magical atmosphere.

The castle is surrounded by a magnificent park, accompanied by endless hunting grounds. There, we lost ourselves in the flow of time, while the sun caressed our necks with its golden rays. Inside the castle’s rooms, the air was cool and filled with history, which deepened our adventure. We spent an hour inside the castle, a fantastic experience! With an engaging guide, we gained insight into the castle’s history. I look ahead to sharing the insights that emerged during the tour.

The place has roots from the 13th century. The lake where the castle is situated, Hjälmaren, is Sweden’s fourth largest. It’s crazy that the lake was much larger in the 14th century than it is now! I instantly understood that there was once a struggle for power where the castle stands. It was indeed a thing during the 14th century, with kings and dukes fighting for power. Here in Nyköping, people still talk about their power struggles (Nyköping’s banquet in 1317).

The ramparts were located in areas where impressive fortifications were built. A defensive tower was erected in the 13th century, which is remarkable! The first castle was constructed here in the 16th century and is part of our rich history. Lars Siggeson Sparre led the construction with great skill!

The Sparre family played a crucial role in the castle’s history. Over several hundred years, they laid the foundation for a grand legacy. The castle developed in beautiful stages. In the 17th century, the Knight’s Hall was created. This part fascinates visitors today with its rich and exciting history of creation.

In the early 19th century, Carl de Geer arrived there as one of Sweden’s richest men. His daughter needed a place to settle down. A castle was planned to be built on top of the fortress. Nonetheless, Carl’s wife, Ulrika Sofia Sprengtporten, had completely different ideas.

According to the guide, Sofia glimpsed hints of enchantment. This occurred while she read Sir Walter Scott’s knight romances. She imagined a world where he lived in a romanticized castle. During the tour, an interesting question arose. This question is seldom mentioned in other sources. Did the same architect create both Stora Sundby Castle and Abbotsford?

Walter Scott’s home (Abbotsford) must have made an impression on Sofia, who stubbornly demanded a castle in the same style. Sure, Frederick Robinson was behind Stora Sundby, but no sources claim that he tailored the design for Abbotsford.

What became of this then? Stora Sundby is a magical calendar castle! With its four majestic towers, it honors the cycles of time. The towers symbolize the four seasons. The twelve small towers represent the months. It also offers 52 rooms and 365 windows, reflecting the richness of weeks and days. The architecture truly captures the essence of the year!

Now to the actual walk! It’s fascinating to think about these gentlemen and ladies. They have lived here, owned properties, and married their great loves. Their love and family stories are a wonderful tapestry of life’s riches to enjoy!

The first stop was the Knights’ Hall, a gem that symbolizes the heart and soul of this magnificent place! Stepping inside feels like traveling back to the 17th century, thanks to the incredible legacy of the Sparre family. The walls are stunningly adorned with leather tapestry paintings that beautifully bring the Battle of Carthage to life. These artworks were crafted during the remarkable de Geer era.

On one side, you can’t miss the striking painting of the first Bernadotte, King Charles XIV Johan. Curious about how a Frenchman became king in Sweden? You’ll uncover that tale on the tour or through a quick Google search! The older paintings now shine in elevated positions, seeming to pay homage to modern masterpieces. The guide shared that the hall’s ceiling was raised. This change allowed for a magnificent ceiling painting in the captivating de Geer style. And up there, the Sparre family’s weapons radiate with pride, a stunning tribute to their enduring legacy!

We walked from one large hall to the other and ended up in the dining room. It wasn’t as spectacular, but there was plenty of charm and elegance. In one corner stands a tiled stove that radiates timeless beauty. The walls are adorned with calfskin wallpaper, and our guide spoke poetically about them. A square for each calf, as if every piece has its own story. Without electricity, the wallpaper would shimmer with a magical glow. A description that captivated us.

The smaller rooms were next, and suddenly an explosive feeling of togetherness emerged, reminiscent of a sitcom family reunion! Fascinating family stories came to light, like a viral family meme. Who married whom? For the first time, I felt like part of something larger, deeply rooted, and amazing. In the red room, I know that some scenes of the series Young Royals were filmed. I can almost hear the tones of dramatic music vibrating in the air. Unexpected twists fill me with anticipation!

Only a few rooms were playing hide and seek! Out of the 52 royal chambers in the castle, just a handful showed up for the tour. As we shuffled through, the rooms seemed to shrink. They were as if on a diet. The air got so thin it was practically a phantom! Some clever folks fanned themselves with brochures, giving new meaning to “cooling off.” We got the juicy gossip on the Sparre, de Geer, and Klingspor families, which outshined the worn furniture. I spotted a patchwork auditioning for wall-to-wall carpeting! The final room featured dimly lit 18th-century paintings. An Italian artist painted them. His name slipped my mind—probably due to the ghostly vibes!

Suddenly, we found ourselves back in the courtyard. We were excitedly discussing the possibility of ghosts in the castle. It’s a question that sparks curiosity in everyone! I was eager to discover if there’s a grand library and hidden passages. To my delight, I learned there is indeed a library. It is not large. The details about secret passages are mysterious. This adds to the charm. Looking ahead, the prospect of more parts of the castle opening for tours is thrilling, especially given its fascinating history!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-07-23

Ljungs Castle in Östergötland transports visitors to the 18th century, where grand halls, kitchens, and secret rooms come alive. Axel von Fersen’s love letters to Marie Antoinette feel as if they’re still being written. It’s a time-travel experience filled with laughter, offering an afternoon where the historic atmosphere returns.

Back in the neighboring county of Östergötland, there is a new attraction: Ljungs Castle. It’s just a 1-hour and 15-minute drive by car. Here is my account of everything I learned during the guided tour. The tour began in front of the castle. The guide provided a history of the castle and shared details about the estate.

The castle was constructed in 1776. It was completed in 1779 at the initiative of Field Marshal and politician Axel von Fersen the Elder. Architect Jean Eric Rehn designed the castle. It is built of stone and brick sourced from nearby quarries. This makes it a locally produced structure. The main building of the castle has three floors. One of the ground-floor rooms houses an exhibition dedicated to Jean Eric Rehn’s interior design.

The visit is a so-called theater tour. With a guide in period clothing, we are shown into different rooms. All the members of the ensemble are from Ljungs Slotts Bevarande. On the lower level, there are the kitchen and spaces for the servants.

We stood lined up along one short side. The magnificent kitchen in front of us had a stove, pantry, and china cabinet. We were given a scene from life in the 1700s among kitchen maids and servants.

Complaints were made about the food, and there were jokes about fake rats in the kitchen. One shot, and the medicine was taken. On the lower floor, there is a café and an exhibition about Jean Erik Rehn. Of course, there is a museum shop there as well. The walk continued to the second floor. This was the floor of the nobility. Here resided the owners of the castle, Axel von Fersen the Elder and his family.

The play is in the kitchen, and the entrance hall is in Rococo style. The second floor is in pure Gustavian style¹.

We walked straight into the dining room. It was a large hall with dining tables. There was a tiled stove and an open fireplace at each end. Tiled stoves became common during the 17th century. On the walls hang portraits of the members of the Fersen family.

The dining room is located on the northern side of the castle, with windows facing north. This is to keep the room cooler during warm times. Here, a small play also took place before we were shown into the duke’s bedroom.

Axel von Fersen² was tall and handsome. But the bed was only 1.65 m long. There was a bed canopy. It was meant to protect against cold and drafts, as well as to offer privacy. Even in there, the duke took care of his needs. In the play, the maid entered the room. She took out a bowl from under the bed. This represented his (you understand).

The pot was then taken up to the attic, where it was emptied. All odors wafted upward, far from where the people were. From the bedroom, the journey continued to the most interesting room: the office of Axel von Fersen the Younger³. It was there that he wrote letters to his beloved Marie Antoinette. They wrote to each other with invisible ink. The maid dusted and polished frantically in the office. She pointed out that von Fersen and Marie Antoinette had a secret code language. This secret code language was used in their correspondence.

Today, these letters have been deciphered. One can read about them in Förbindelsen – Marie-Antoinette och Axel von Fersen, which is based on letters and diaries. This book is authored by Kristina Ekero Eriksson. It was here in that Room we also heard the gossip about him and the Queen of France. There was an interesting moment of gossip about Axel von Fersen the Younger. He is also best known for his romance with the Queen of France.

The walk continued into the “fine salons,” as they say, literally into the salon. There, court was held. The gentlemen and ladies swung their shaggy legs, and music was played on the piano nearby.

I do not know what they danced to. But, the music was probably to the tones of baroque music’s sound. It also have been folk music in the spirit of the 18th century. In the next room, the governess lies slumped on the bed. She complains of a headache and nausea.

The maid then serves her a medicinal cure. She offers a glass with a concoction made from a whole array of ingredients. I didn’t manage to note these ingredients. The only thing I remember was a mixture of red and white wine, cinnamon sticks, and something else. It sounds like a rosé version of mulled wine.

In the next room, appearance was everything. A makeup room and a bidet on the floor were completely open for people in the house to see. At that time, one couldn’t be ashamed of cleaning oneself “down there.” Intimacy was almost nonexistent. The guide showcased the cold clothes she wore. She talked about her attire and explained how people dressed back then. It consisted of stockings, wedges, and petticoats, with a nightgown also included beneath everything.

A beauty spot (from the French “mouche⁴,”meaning “fly”) was an important detail in 18th-century fashion. It merged practical needs with aesthetic and symbolic values. We learned this when the guide showed hers on her right cheek.

At the End

It was there that the fun came to an end. The 1 hour and 10 minutes of guided tour, featuring elements of theater, was over. Dressed-up ladies in period-appropriate 18th-century attire and facts about both the palace and the von Fersen family had now concluded.

Back to the lower level and Rococo-style architecture, I was back in the 21st century. The museum shop and Ljung Church captured our last attention. Most of those from the Fersen family are buried there.

It was a long day in Östergötland County. We took a time travel back to the 18th century. The journey home to Södermanland County became a journey through time.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-07-13

1. Gustavian style is a Swedish take on French neoclassicism from the time of Gustav III (around 1770–1810). It includes light colors, straight lines, and classical elements like urns and ribbons. The furniture is graceful yet simple, typically painted in gray, white, or gray-green, suitable for Nordic light. It embodies ideals of simplicity and harmony and has aristocratic origins. Today, it stands for refined tradition in Swedish interior design. ↩︎
2. Axel von Fersen the Elder (1719–1794) was a Swedish count, military officer, and diplomat. He was the ambassador to France and a member of the Council of State. A key figure in the Hat Party, he supported a pro-French, monarchist policy. This greatly affected Sweden’s domestic and foreign affairs in the 18th century. He was the father of the more well-known Axel von Fersen the Younger. ↩︎
3. Axel von Fersen the Younger (1755 – 1810) was a nobleman and cosmopolitan. After his military training, he traveled across Europe. He mingled with French court circles. He became a close friend of Marie Antoinette. There were rumors suggesting he was her lover. He organized the royal family’s failed escape to Varennes in 1791 during the French Revolution. He served as an officer in both France and America. Later, he was promoted to major general in Sweden. In 1799, he became Marshal of the Realm. His diaries and letters give insights into Swedish politics and the French court life of the late 18th century. Today, he is remembered as a key figure linking Sweden and Europe. He is also recognized as a notable character of the Swedish Gustavian era. ↩︎
4. “Mouche,” was a small piece of black fabric, often shaped like a fly. It was glued onto the face or chest. The purpose was to highlight the white, powdered skin. It also hid imperfections like scars or pimples. Most importantly, it showed that a person belonged to the higher social class that afforded makeup and accessories. ↩︎

Through Östergötland between monasteries and chocolate. From Vreta Monastery to Cloetta in Ljungsbro, where Kexchoklad is made. We indulged in temptation and then continued to IKEA in Linköping. A day with contrasts between the sacred and the worldly.

The other day, it was time for a new excursion through the history of culture, art, religion, and entrepreneurship. Not far from here – more precisely, in the neighboring county of Östergötland. There is much to see and explore there. For us, it was an easy journey of about an hour. Filled with anticipation and curiosity, we set off on the road.

The main destination of the day was, of course, IKEA in Linköping. We had a somewhat tight budget. Yet, we decided to spend. We set aside 4000 kronor (371 USD) for this purpose. But before that, we wanted to explore some historical gems in the county. Castles and churches adorn the landscape there, just as in our own county.

Östergötland offers a fascinating mix of attractions. There is a golf ball museum. A candy factory¹ (Cloetta) and one of Sweden’s oldest monasteries add to the charm. It is a nunnery dating back to the 12th century. I have been losing weight and training diligently for some time. My goal is to improve my health. So, a stop at the candy factory felt like a temptation I should avoid.

But fate had other plans – we stopped at the Cloetta chocolate factory anyway, which is also part of Malaco. Here, everything from Swedish Fish to gummy candy and Kexchoklad is produced; it’s an irresistible place for a sweet tooth. We made a brief stop at Vreta Abbey before reaching the factory. This was just before the small town of Ljungsbro, where the chocolate factory is located.

What did we learn about the abbey? Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside, as a funeral was taking place. But we took a peaceful walk around the monastery ruins, where informative signs told their history.

Vreta Abbey is one of Sweden’s oldest monastic sites, with a history dating back to the 12th century. It was Sweden’s first nunnery and belonged to the Cistercian Order. Here, noblewomen were educated at a time when education for women was rare. The abbey was an important spiritual and intellectual center and had strong ties to the Swedish royal family.

Bishop Bengt Birgersson (c. 1254–1291), brother of King Magnus Ladulås, reopened the abbey in 1289 in the king’s presence. Bengt was a typical medieval church prince, where politics and religion went hand in hand. His career illustrates how the monarchy used the church to strengthen its position in the 13th century.

Gustav Vasa’s Reformation in the 16th century led to the dissolution of monasteries in Sweden. Despite this, Vreta Abbey continued to serve as a residence for the last nuns until the end of the century. An old legend tells of a secret underground passage. It leads from the abbey to Berg’s locks at the Göta Canal. The ruins are said to be haunted. Several visitors have reported strange lights. Shadows move in the darkness.

After our historical visit, it was time for something less ascetic – the Cloetta chocolate factory. We filled a large bag with various sweets and left the store with a mix of joy and guilt. But we consoled ourselves with the thought that something even more enjoyable awaited – an ending at IKEA, of course.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-03-02

1. Cloetta https://www.cloetta.com/en ↩︎

On track through water

From exploring the island on four wheels, bouncing around in a jeep, it was on foot that mattered this day. Newly acquired hiking shoes and a journey ahead on our own two feet would be a day of relief.

Heavy clouds loomed over us. Despite the weather gods working against us, we would still defy the weather. We played our way along the water-filled paths at Parque Florestal das Queimadas, Madeira Natural Park, Santana.

Along waterfalls and steep cliffs, we walked in a group with others and a guide who was constantly braking. What was there to say about everything, really?

You had to get ahead on your own. Be careful not to hit your head on branches and hold on tightly to the railing. Where there was a railing, so to speak.

Brand new shoes with a water guarantee and marked with Gore-Tex, I could feel safe. During the entire hike, which was 11 km, no water got into my shoes.

My socks were dry at the rest area. I took a little time to recover. I also checked everything in my golf watch. Now, it’s time to continue hiking. This time, a much shorter distance—only 3 km. The earlier one was measured at 8 km.

That was the only adventurous thing that happened that day. We knew that it would be even more demanding the next day. A new hike, a new place, and new opportunities. No guide, and only according to our own needs. More about that in the next blog post. Guess where?

The clue is in the picture below?

Summary

The day’s adventure shifted from exploring by jeep to hiking on foot in Madeira’s Parque Florestal das Queimadas. Despite looming clouds, the trek continued along waterfalls and steep cliffs with a guide and a group. Navigating wet paths, avoiding low branches, and relying on Gore-Tex shoes kept the hiker dry and comfortable. The total hike covered 11 km, followed by a shorter 3 km stretch. With a Garmin watch tracking progress, the day ended with anticipation for an even more challenging hike the next day.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-01-29

On the roads

The adventure was booked and ready. We quickly transitioned into Day 4, igniting a sense of anticipation that buzzed in the air like electricity. On Day 3, we thoroughly explored Funchal to recharge and prepare for the excitement ahead. We wandered the streets, squares and visited local markets. At the hotel’s driveway, we eagerly awaited the colorful jeep that would take us across the island.

Six enthusiastic participants and a driver, who was even more enthusiastic, got into the vehicle. We were ready to start an adventure. One charismatic individual was our guide, driver, and tour guide all at once. This provided a unique perspective that made the experience even more special. The multi-talented host knew everything about the island. He also shared tales of the area’s history and culture.

Two of the party rubbed their bottoms against hard benches on the jeep’s flatbed benches. Still, no one complained; the excitement of the adventure outweighed any discomfort we felt. It wasn’t just water around the island and its shores. It was a living fabric of nature. We visited and swept past these shores. We saw waterfall after waterfall, each cascading with an ethereal grace that made it hard to believe it was real.

That day it is windy. At places where you can normally swim, we were advised not to take a dip. There was possibility at a well enclosed bay where the strong wind did not reach. It was cold, but a dip up to the knees was much needed.

The asphalt ran out. Gravel roads and steep hills took over. We knew we were close to Fanal Forest (Fanal Witch Tree). Once there, the fog was so dense that visibility was short. The Jeep handled the steep hills gallantly. Whether it would handle hard bumps in potholes was more uncertain, but it did. All sharp boulders stood no chance against the jeep’s tires. The tires held, after all.

On foot

Thank goodness we got to stretch our legs several times. Imagine sitting there on the hard bench. We would have been in the back of the car from early morning to late afternoon. But it wasn’t like that.

We stopped several times. These stops brought blood back to our feet. They also provided warmth in our legs and a hot drink in our stomachs (coffee). What was the view if you didn’t stand and look at it out of the car?

We made a stop at a cafe. Then we went to a restaurant for food. After that, we visited the place we had been looking ahead to: Fanal Forest. The fog was dense, with cows and bulls grazing and people searching for where they were going.

A wedding photographer captured a bride and groom in the fog. It was difficult to avoid being in the middle of the shot. The mist caressed the camera lens as we strode along the trees to find where we were going.

The fog was there, and the cows were mooing in a landscape. It seemed to come from a painting by Caspar David Friedrich.¹ This experience was magical. For 20 minutes, we enjoyed the quietness and the fog. We had the opportunity to daydream about the world of art and fantasy.

The next stop was in the sign of water. In a place where you can swim in better weather, we walked down a long staircase. The waterfalls along the way were seen, studied, and photographed on foot. A long day on almost impassable roads ended late in the afternoon. We also walked in misty mountains and beautiful coastal gems. The same way we came, the same way we left.

Summary

The adventure through Madeira blended excitement, natural beauty, and moments of serene magic. The journey extended from exploring Funchal to navigating rugged roads. We traveled through misty mountains in Porto Moniz — Madeira Natural Park. The journey was filled with breathtaking sights, cascading waterfalls, and immersive experiences. The cold winds and bumpy roads presented challenges. Yet, the day was unforgettable. It offered a harmonious mix of exploration, tranquility, and anticipation for new adventures ahead.

⬅️ Tomorrow is a day too, filled with endless possibilities and opportunities for exploration. A new adventure awaits. New expeditions follow in the footsteps of the hiker. The hiker (me) is ready to uncover hidden trails and breathtaking landscapes. We will feel the wild spirit of nature surrounding us. With every step (on wet, muddy hiking trails), we’ll create memories that linger long after our journey ends. See you then, as we prepare to embrace the call of the wild together.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-11-28

1. Caspar David Friedrich (1774–1840) was a German Romantic painter famous for his landscapes that show nature’s beauty and depth. Iconic paintings are Wanderer above the Sea of Fog (1818) and The Abbey in the Oakwood (1809-10). He established his legacy as a landscape painting master. ↩︎

An early morning dawns, but not too late. I know they’re waiting for us, all these flowers. The gray weather shall be deafened by all its colors. The plants have become our shelter from the rain.

New day on an island, far out in the Atlantic Ocean. The hotel breakfast was approved. The hotel was full of people in their upper middle age and older. We had chosen the hotel for the best possible peace. The hotel was child-free. It was full of English and Nordic guests.

Every night, there was live music in the hotel bar. The performances ranged from classic rock and pop to Spanish tunes. Troubadours of all genres entertained us. It was close to the beach and located in the middle of the old part of the city, very near to the cable car station, so…

…is there one way up, or two? There are roads, of course, as steep as the depth of admiration for the island’s fantastic nature. The above-ground route did not attract us. Fear of heights and mixed thoughts took us up along the mountain in a bus. A bus as wide as the roads and constantly facing oncoming traffic. Who goes first? The biggest goes first was the mantra along the narrow and steep uphills. Finally, we arrived at what was the first destination of the day: Madeira Botanical Garden.

The Madeira Botanical Garden¹ was proposed as early as the 17th century and opened in 1960. It spans about eight hectares, with five hectares dedicated to landscaped areas featuring various trees and ornamental shrubs. You can explore sections with orchids, lawns, and scenic viewpoints over Madeira’s capital, along with an amphitheater.

The garden is home to over 2,000 exotic plants from around the world. To tackle global biodiversity loss, it includes a research and conservation area focused on preserving these species.

In the end, we both arrived at the heights I didn’t want to look down from. Every downward glance became a squint. Narrow paths took us around the gigantic garden. Plants and flowers in all their shapes and colors were waiting for the rain. However, we didn’t, but we knew it would come, sooner or later.

Gray clouds and narrow paths circled around. We hiked, took photos, and sought shelter from the rain that fell. The path circled like the cutting of the bushes in the main image of the post. Slim but still with all plants. Carefully, we moved between fountains and swimming turtles. We encountered terrifying cacti with thorns as long as my fingers. I hid my fingers in my pockets.

The rain fell as we prepared for the next destination. It would take us even further upwards. Vertigo would be on the agenda. First, a bite to eat, a little to drink 🥤, and getting caught in the tourist trap. A golf shirt, of course. A hobby golfer like me can proudly play a round of golf here at home. I can wear a shirt that says Madeira Golf on it.

For further travel upwards, it was, of course, the cable car that applied. Pretty much the whole time on the way up to Jardim Monte Palace, I closed my eyes. My heart was in the pit of my throat. I kept thinking that the cart would break loose and fall into the depths of the mountain valley.

The Monte Palace Madeira Garden has a prime hilltop location. It offers panoramic views over Funchal’s bay. This garden is one of the most unique places on the island of Madeira. It is marked by its exotic flora and the art that surrounds it.

The history of Jardim Monte Palace² dates back to the 18th century. Charles Murray, an English consul, bought the property south of Monte Church. In 1897, Alfredo Guilherme Rodrigues purchased it and built a grand residence, which later became the ‘Monte Palace Hotel.’

The Monte Palace Madeira Garden now showcases about 100,000 plant species from around the world. This includes ancient cycads, known as living fossils. There are several Buddhist sculptures and lanterns. There is also an impressive collection of tiles from the 15th to 20th centuries. The garden is home to diverse wildlife, including swans, peacocks, and Asian koi fish.

What else could we expect? To my delight, I got to take part in art and photographs. Along the paths that surround the giant garden, we could see images and motifs with a historical connection. Many of them were both restored and copies of motifs from the 16th century.

With a Pina Colada in hand and tired legs, we watch a group of pelicans resting, standing on one leg. I have two and have a hard time getting them to carry me. We have hiked, ridden the cable car, and hiked some more. The 1,000-year-old olive tree at the entrance to the last stop is the last thing we admire.

A long day among plants, high up in the mountains, was over. The way back was as scary as the way up. The closer we got to the station, the more I could breathe out. The carriage remained hanging. My fear disappeared with the deep sigh I gave as we stepped out of the cable car.

Back to the hotel (Porto Santa Maria)³. Recharge our batteries and ourselves and a glass of the island’s namesake. 🍷 Relaxing in preparation for the next adventure – a jeep safari in the mountains…

💬 See you not tomorrow, the day after tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-10-30

1. https://visitmadeira.com/en/what-to-do/culture-passionates/gardens/monte-palace-madeira-garden/ ↩︎
2. https://visitmadeira.com/en/what-to-do/culture-passionates/gardens/monte-palace-madeira-garden/ ↩︎
3. https://www.portobay.com/en/hotels/madeira-hotels/porto-santa-maria/ ↩︎

The cold lingers like the afterword in a film when the Swedish winter enters its second phase. It is the end of February, and the cold feels like the freezer in the kitchen.

At Arlanda Airport, winter clothes should be put away, and more lightly dressed adventurers should head to warmer regions. Time passed quickly, and we almost missed the plane. There was a lot to check out in the duty-free shop at the airport. But we managed. With breaths caught in our throats and drops of sweat on our foreheads, we sat there on the plane, anyway. If we had missed the plane, it would have been a disaster. From now on, we must always be on time. You don’t make the same mistake twice, do you? Or…?

We exchanged the Swedish winter for warmth and a snow-free landscape. Not at all unusual when you live in the cold north. This time, we have chosen to focus on nature experiences, wilderness, and adventure instead of art. Hiking among mountains, forests, and gardens, as well as Madeira’s food culture, has become our priority. A new pair of hiking boots was purchased for all of the week’s adventures. Of course, we had clothes and equipment for long hikes in the mountains, gardens, and forests with us.

The flight was long in contrast to the distance to the seat in front. There were closely placed airplane seats with short legroom. My knees scraped against the backrest in front of me. It ached in all parts of my knees and down to my feet.

An Airbus A319 received landing clearance five hours later on one of the world’s shortest runways. The landing was as calm as a dip in the pool and a quick taxi ride to Funchal. Once at the hotel, we had to recharge both our own batteries and those in our iPhones.

The small island group far out in the Atlantic Ocean still has great opportunities for a rich life of adventure. The longing for everything was like a dog’s drool along the corners of our mouths. The island attracts those who thirst for wilderness and natural experiences, but also those who just want to enjoy it. 🍷

Madeira is an island group in the Atlantic Ocean, 400 kilometers north of the Canary Islands. It belongs to Portugal but is politically self-governing. It consists of the main island of Madeira, the island of Porto Santo, as well as some uninhabited islands.

The capital is Funchal. In the harbor stands one of the world’s best soccer players, but only in muscles and clothes of bronze. Madeira-born Cristiano Ronaldo is in all his glory, but the protagonist of this journey is once again a soon-to-be 50-year-old. Besides him, there are, of course, boats of all sizes. Sailboats and giant cruise ships mingle with a replica of Christopher Columbus‘ flagship, the carrack Santa Maria. It was with this ship that he accidentally reached America in 1492. A new continent was discovered, but we know that the Vikings landed there 500 years before him. For those who are keen, you can travel around the bay with her.

The distance from the hotel to the beach was as short as Ronaldo’s free kicks. After fully charged batteries and with a dribble signed by Ronaldo, our bellies were empty, but expectations were high. On the first day, it was, of course, the first attempt to taste Madeira’s local specialties. With the smell of the sea and the aroma of fish restaurants, we filled our hungry bellies.

After that, the ground will be trampled, nature experienced, and mountains climbed. Tomorrow, plants will meet us with their beauty. The Madeira Botanical Garden and Jardim Monte Palace, high up in the mountains, will welcome us with their charm.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-10-17

Last day of the week in the city of love made an entrance. It is a day that, to a large extent, goes in the form and sign of the hard material. The sun casts a warm glow over the cobblestone streets. The bustling energy of the city takes on a new rhythm.

Everything from sculptures and architectural monuments to a slightly lighter adventure awaited us as we stepped into the museum. The haunting stillness of Auguste Rodin’s monuments surrounded us. Their pale, imposing figures seemed to come to life in the dim light.

As we made our way through the museum, we felt a profound connection to the artist. His timeless masterpieces captivated us. For a moment, it felt as if we were stepping into a slightly lighter adventure. This journey beautifully intertwined history, art, and the boundless potential of human creativity.

Cogito, ergo sum. The thinker in his own form stands in the middle of the garden where many of Rodin’s creations stand. As the thinker contemplates existence, the sculptures around him seem to come to life. Each sculpture tells its own story through the frozen movement captured by Rodin’s skilled hands.

In the house where the museum is housed, I was surprised by the works of other artists exhibited there. Some van Gogh and works from Munch, of course. As I wandered through the halls, I also came across breathtaking pieces by Monet, Renoir, and Picasso.

I was pleasantly surprised and overwhelmed with joy when I stepped into the museum. I laid my eyes on the exquisite paintings by the renowned artists Van Gogh and Munch. There were also works by other artists.

A lunch among all the stiff figures would give us more energy. It would be as if we ourselves stepped out of our marble costume we put on during the week. Taking the time to enjoy a leisurely meal with colleagues can offer a needed break from the daily grind. It allows for lively conversations. It provides the opportunity to recharge our mental batteries.

A short visit to the Place de la Concorde with neither blood spatter nor trace of royalty. We continued to the Arc de Triumph in the center of the Champs-Élysées. The Place de la Concorde stands as a symbol of French history. Its impressive Egyptian obelisk and ornate fountains epitomize grandeur.

As we strolled through the square, echoes of the past reverberated through the air. They reminded us of the historical events that have taken place on this hallowed ground.

We walked around it and under it. We marveled at the intricate details of the architecture. The sunlight played beautifully with the shadows.

A little later, we ended up at La Défense, the modern business district with its towering skyscrapers and bustling streets. It was a gigantic contrast to everything we experienced during the week.

From history, to more modern history and now, perhaps the most modern part of the city. Modern architecture and tall buildings, far from brick, marble, and concrete. The skyline of this bustling city is now dominated by sleek glass skyscrapers. Each skyscraper is a testament to human ingenuity. These buildings represent technological advancement.

The historical wing beats seemed to have flown away. They left behind a serene atmosphere. This atmosphere whispered tales of the past. The ancient walls echoed with the memories of generations long gone. The place’s energy felt vibrant and alive.

The people we met there were anything but historical. Young people, who have a future ahead of them, filled the air with excitement. Their ambition painted a vivid contrast against the backdrop of antiquity.

All the places, all the historical visits, and the hunt for French cuisine were now over. Tomorrow the flight goes home, and everything points to the fact that I will come back to Paris. I am convinced of that — but when, that is a mystery?

The next time we meet here on the blog, I will have moved to a small Portuguese island. It is far out in the Atlantic. The island is known for its stunning cliffs, picturesque beaches, and rich maritime history.

From traditional seafood dishes to colorful festivals, there is so much to discover and experience on this beautiful island. I can’t wait to share my adventures with you in the upcoming blog posts.

The next trip and adventure will be in February 2024, spending a week in Madeira. There will be a report about this on the blog later. The theme will be focused on plants and nature, including mountain safaris and hikes in forests and mountains. We explored the beautiful landscapes of Madeira and visited botanical gardens.

…to be continued

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-08-29

Finally, another museum visit, close to the hotel and conveniently scheduled during our stay. The 20th-century art lines the walls of the Center Pompidou¹, showcasing everything I like.

The classic facade was in front of us. The red parts were on the long escalator. The queue below was all the shorter. Just a fraction of the one we stood in at the Louvre.

Maybe it was something else that attracted, what do I know? Short queues and a reasonable ticket price and large areas for fewer visitors were a big advantage during the visit.

My excitement went from my chest to my pupils the closer we got to the exhibit. The large entrance hall with shops on either side was what I so eagerly expected. Books at one and souvenirs at the other. Let the adventure begin.

It was the master of contemporary art I was looking for. Kahlo, Mondrian, Miró, Kandinsky, and others. Everyone was there, so to speak. Even Picasso, Warhol, and Jackson Pollock had found their way there.

I could next feel myself floating along the room, as if floating on clouds. Everyone was there. The ones I wanted to see and meet.

It was as if I walked in there with one of my favorite books from university in my hand. I could almost feel a weight in my arms from the heavy book. H.H. Arnason – History of Modern Art (Fifth edition 2003)

I myself floated forward, upright, not upside down like New York City², I guess. If not this one too, has been hanging upside down for years. That in view of the discovery that New York City I (1941) has been hanging upside down for years.

More and more of the masters of contemporary art lined up like a panorama in front of me. It was she I was looking for, exactly her.

Like a ferret in search of food, I searched for what made my day. The Mexican contemporary art queen was there. With her back to the wall and a determined gaze, she stares at us with her thick, interlocking eyebrows. (The Frame 1938)³.

The hunt for the masters continued. The adventure in the jungle of contemporary art was not over. This was despite finding what I was looking for. My gut feeling sailed on the ocean of art science. It navigated us onward. There were plenty of goodies in the gigantic museum.

From nowhere along the corridor’s long wall, hang artworks by Picasso, Pollock, and Warhol. Everyone wants to be seen. The tired visitor mostly wants to find the elevator down to the entrance. But not me.

I wanted more, I didn’t want it to end. I knew Marie was waiting for us. She wanted to be freed before being taken away to the Place de la Concorde. We know from history what happened there during the French Revolution (1789-1799).

After a quick look at Pollock’s abstract lines and Warhol’s classic celebrity faces, we noticed more eroticism. This time it was from Picasso (La Pisseuse 1965)⁴. Afterward, we would visit Marie Antoinette at the Palais de Justice.

Maybe it would be like coming back to where we started the journey. Marie Antoinette existed as a royal apparition at Versailles and later this day as an imprisoned one.

It was with sadness that I left the Centre Pompidou and immediately wanted to return. I’m going there again, that’s for sure. The gallery I would like to work at – but my French isn’t that good 😉

In summary, it was a street race through its large exhibition halls. I got to see many of my favorite artists’ creations. I saw works by Frida Kahlo, Piet Mondrian, as well as Jackson Pollock and Joan Miró.

The mobile camera drained the battery. Ideally, I wanted to go there again the next day. I didn’t buy anything in the souvenir shop. Well, nothing actually.

The next day, more of what stands out, or rather up in the sky in different formats, materials, and shapes.

©️ Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-30

1. National museum of contemporary art, located in the 4th arrondissement of Paris. The museum opened in 1977 on the initiative of French President Georges Pompidou. Art from the 20th century onwards is displayed here. In addition to the permanent exhibition, a number of temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art are offered. ↩︎
2. oil-on-canvas painting by Piet Mondrian, completed in 1942 ↩︎
3. The Frame Kahlo’s self-portrait in oil on a sheet of aluminum framed in glass which she purchased from a market in Oaxaca, Mexico 1938 ↩︎
4. Oil-on-canvas painting by Pablo Picasso – april 1965 ↩︎

Julita Manor dates back to the 12th century and reflects Swedish cultural history. Its past includes medieval monasteries and 20th-century manor life. Guided tours reveal its secrets and tell stories from Arthur Bäckström’s era, covering salons, workshops, and the church. These tales help explain the interaction between history, people, and the environment in this cultural heritage.

The wind was blowing from the west. The waves at Öljaren were as high as my expectations for a full day trip to Julita manor. The place where the manor is now located dates back to the end of the 12th century.

It is an important historical place in the county where we live. It is just a 1 hour and 20-minute drive away, too close to miss. Julita Manor is now part of the Nordiska Museet, where it was donated by its last owner, Lieutenant Arthur Bäckström.

I will reproduce everything here as best I can. It includes what my eyes and ears caught during and after the guided tour and stored in my memory.

The house, known as the big house, is significantly younger than the area. The main building was constructed in the 17th century but burnt down in the mid-18th century. A new house in the classicist style was built on the site sometime in the 18th century.

Arthur Bäckström’s parents bought the manor at auction in 1892 after the Palbitzki family. The house was completely empty at the time of purchase. The Bäckström family put their own stamp on the house. They customized its exterior and associated buildings. They also personalized everything I got to see inside the house.

The house has been owned by Arthur Bäckström since 1902, when he inherited it from his father, Johan Bäckström. He leased the farm until his death in 1941.

The tour guide was able to explain a lot to me, just to me, in an engaging way. Dressed in period clothing, the guide started the performance. A coachman’s residence was one of the buildings added during Arthur’s time on the farm. A stable was also added. In addition, a carriage wing was constructed.

We did the guided tour in shifts. We had our dog with us, which is okay in the area. You just need to keep the dog on a leash.

Speaking of dogs, it was dogs that were dear to Arthur Bäckström’s heart. They were his children. Since he didn’t have any kids of his own, the dogs were part of his family. It is also said that the dogs are buried where he himself is buried.

At the end of the 12th century, specifically in 1180, I learned that King Knut Eriksson donated the farm Säby. This farm corresponded to most of Julita parish. It was given to the Cistercian order. A monastery was built where the manor stands today.

The monks built vaults where the south wing now stands. You can go down under it and look to see what the vault, which the monks built, looks like. Even the dog was welcome down. In the wing, there is a large kitchen for cooking for everyone in the mansion. There was another kitchen in the north wing. It was used to cook food for guests and passers-by. It also served as a soup kitchen for vagrants who often came by.

During one and the same year in Arthur’s time. If I remember correctly, the guide said there were 1600 hobo visits in a year, which is documented. It makes me think that maybe Arthur cared about everyone. He wanted to help the poor and hungry. He also wanted to make sure everyone who worked on the estate was fine.

Lake Öljaren is to the west. The manor house is to the east. There is one thing to remember, but I’ll get to that a little later 🧭.

As we know from history, it was the Reformation in the 16th century under the rule of king Gustav Vasa. All the monasteries were looted and disappeared, and Sweden became Lutheran. Julita then became a royal farm.

I already knew that Gustav Vasa died in 1560. I have worked at the county museum. I lectured about him and his children. I mainly focused on his youngest son, Duke Karl (later King Karl IX). However, I was unaware that Gustav Vasa stayed at Julita for two weeks due to illness just before his death. The guide said that the king had a retinue with him and that included 200 horses. Horses that would last two weeks on the estate.

If the illness that the king contracted during his journey would cause his death, the guide could not answer. The guide showed a detailed description of who owned the farm first. The guide did this by pointing to the portrait paintings hanging on the hall wall of the house. I have now forgotten who they were.

The first floor of the house was Arthur’s private floor. The well-read and committed guide talked about how important his dogs were. He loved to drink rhubarb juice in the morning when he woke up. He pointed to the pitcher on a small table next to Arthur’s bed. Perhaps it was a bit of curiosity from the viewing. Or maybe it was because I asked a lot. I was as interested as the guide himself.

Arthur’s own breakfast room is at one end, and his private bedroom is at the other. Imagine if you had that for yourself. In between, there is a room where he and other higher dignitaries sat. They smoked and played cards. They probably also discussed business and politics. Opposite is a room that serves as a study, with a desk and associated accessories.

It is the common area that meets us on the next floor: the lounge and dining room. A room with porcelain from Rörstrand and shelves filled with glass, glass with Arthur’s seal on it. My question was, of course, if the glasses come from Rejmyre glass factory, perhaps. The glass factory is not too far from here and was founded in 1810. The guide could not answer that question, so others will have to find out. On the website there may be answers or not?

In the room with all the crockery, there is a food elevator. The food came from the warming room below. There, the cooked food was transported from the kitchen in the south wing. In the so-called Julita room, there is a large painting of Julita piecework. The guide told us that leather cannons were made there. Making the cannons easier to move on the battlefield seemed to be the intent. However, it turned out to be a fiasco. The gunpowder mixture was not always correct, and so the cannon blew up and fell apart.

The painting on the wall is a copy, the guide said. The original can be found at the National Museum in Amsterdam. I was there myself, in the spring of 2023. I certainly saw the original. I did not reflect on it at the time.

On the top floor, there is a library, guest rooms, and a large drawing room. I found out the professor and his wife were staying as guests. They were in one of the guest rooms in the northern part of the salon. The large library of over 5000 volumes, I imagine, satisfied the professor on his visit.

Large trunks lined the entrance to the guest rooms. They were a sign that someone traveled far. The traveler intended to stay there for a long time.

It wasn’t just visitors, tramps, and long-distance guests who enjoyed Artur’s company. Even the employees are said to enjoy it there. Most of the 150 employees lived in the area. A large part of them were crofters and lived in the 80 crofts on the manor.

One who was mentioned often and many times was the farm carpenter Forsman. Henning Forsman was his full name. I was told that the majority of the furniture in the mansion was made by him. In his carpentry workshop, which is located on the outskirts, there was no electricity. Everything was done by hand and with mechanical machines.

There was electricity in the manor house. The guide enthusiastically pointed out the lamps in the ceiling. They did not have lampshades. This was to show that they had electric light in the house.

Forsman’s mission was to manufacture furniture for the nobility in various historical styles. Most of the furniture in the house is made by him. The guide showed me chairs in the Empire style, and sure enough, I could see it. As an art historian, I immediately recognize the style. It includes traditional lion’s paws. There are also tassels as decoration, mainly on the chair legs.

I was able to leave the mansion behind me after an hour of guiding. The gigantic garden was in front of me. At the end of it, a gazebo, which, according to the guide, is a replica. The original can be found at Skansen.

Many impressions and a lot in my historical backpack, we continued to explore the area. Orangery, museum, and a church are just a few buildings to visit. There is more, and a café of course. The coffee was almost more expensive than the entrance fee, but the nice café staff was a big plus. Water for the dog and coffee for us.

Adjacent to the church, there is a Julita Skans folk museum. There, Arthur Bäckström displayed items from his private collection. Today, when I came in, there was also a smaller art exhibition. “Finally,” I thought. “There is a bit of modern art. I found it when I got up to the exhibition, which is upstairs in the museum’s entrance.”

It is an ongoing exhibition of works from local artists. They operate in Katrineholm municipality – which includes Julita manor. The exhibition is organized by the non-profit association KIKK (Konstnärer i Katrineholms Kommun). There were some works I liked. Mainly the abstract works with strong colors.

The museum building is connected to the church on the farm. There is a small courtyard serving as a link between them. The church gate, as is the case in most instances, is in the west. That’s what I intended to convey, as I mentioned earlier, the matter concerning the weather lines.

The big house is to the east, as is the church’s altar. It is a walk from the gate in the west, from Öljaren’s location in relation to the farm. Traditionally, churches have always been built so that the altar is in the east and the entrance in the west. The congregation must therefore look towards the east. This is the direction which is the origin of light. It is where the sun rises.

The church then? Or rather a chapel. Built in wood according to Arthur’s own ideas. Wooden benches and an altar at the front in the east. A seemingly small religious building with a free-standing bell tower – a so-called campanile.

The day trip continued. We visited the orangery and the nearby brickworks. Some flowers were bought before there was a short visit inside the museum shop.

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-22

A new day in a new part of the city. We crossed to the other side of the river. We gained a new perspective on a new hotel. We set off on an exploration of the boulevards of the 9th arrondissement. Without the key to the lock, we headed for new heights.

Expectations were, of course, high, but we had to wait a while. It was Amelie’s place that had to push us out of the hotel room. Mile after mile, we have walked, and there would be many more to walk. Out of bed and up the slopes, our next destination was Moulin Rouge¹.

Light steps, filled with expectations, we made our way up the slopes. Hundreds of tourists and hundreds of smartphones in the air caught the view with the classic facade. The red windmill and its surroundings, didn’t disappoint us.

Of course, it didn’t end there. More to see, more to discover. Along the narrow streets, artists sat with their easels. They were around the closely spaced cafes. The artists at Place du Tertre² waited for the object.

Some wanted to be painted, and some could smell the food from nearby restaurants. We didn’t find Amelie³ either, but we didn’t expect that. She probably had other things to do that day ;)With new information and discoveries, we continued to move upwards. Nothing without the lock, as the key to where we were going.

Along the railings on the grand staircase at the great cathedral, everything goes into a lock. The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre stands behind us as a silhouette. We move our eyes along the view of the city. High up, we stand, and on the horizon, the 210-metre (689 ft) Tour Maine-Montparnasse rises high from the landscape.

Perhaps we stood at the highest point of the 18th arrondissement. We looked at the road, searching for traces of where we had just walked. That was how we got to this place. But that was just a parenthesis in the whole thing.

There was not much left to see and discover that day. Back in the 9th arrondissement, we walked along boulevards. After enjoying a late dinner at a standard restaurant, we landed on the hotel balcony. We caught the night lights of the city.

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-16

1. Moulin Rouge is an entertainment establishment at Place Blanche in Montmartre in Paris ↩︎
2. A square in the 18th arrondissement, a few streets away from Basilica of the Sacré Cœur. From the end of the 18th century until World War One, the whole Montmartre Boheme could be seen here: painters, songwriters and poets. ↩︎
3. Refers to the classic film Amelie from Montmartre (Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain) – 2001 ↩︎

La Joconde was still waiting for me to visit her. Me and thousands of other people too. Sadly, I couldn’t visit her until later in the day. I was like a child on Christmas Eve, waiting for Santa Claus. My time will come, that say.

Earlier that day, we explored the city a bit more. An excursion with new eyes after hunting for new glasses. At the 3rd arrondissement, we found what we were looking for. New frames, not for me but…

…suddenly they added color to everyday life. Color on streets along the end of the rainbow. The treasure was there somewhere. The holy grail perhaps? 😉

With new spectacle frames procured, I prepared for my date with La Gioconda and others in the Louvre¹. My expectations were like a fragrant cloud in my art historical mind. The colors of the rainbow were vivid in my memory. A line stretched outside the pyramid’s entrance, as long as the Great Wall of China.

I could almost smell the 400-year-old tempera. Without a map or compass, we still knew where to go first. With brisk steps along the picture-covered walls of the labyrinth we barely made it through.

My date with Mona Lisa² had begun. But not just for me. Hundreds of other people dated her. Her mysterious smile kept us at bay. Imprisoned behind tempered glass and guards everywhere – she hadn’t time for a chat.

One step forward, one back and some steps to the side. Same procedure for a while. Hands in the air and flashes everywhere. I needed a stair. Poetic lines, yes it is, but ten minutes later, the visit continued.

In room after room, painting after painting, and I could look at some of my favorite artist’s paintings. Masterpieces by: Leonardo, David, Caravaggio, Gentileschi, Titian, Rafael and many more.

Like a Formula 1 race through the history. I raced around sarcophaguses, sphinxes, Egyptian sculptures and ancient objects, everywhere. The time was running out. We reached the finish line just after the white lady in marble (Venus of Milo³) said to us, “welcome back”.

– Yes of course, I’ll be back, soon. One day wasn’t enough. We needed more time! The 4th day in the city of love culminated in a date with Mona Lisa. It ended in the Carousel Garden. The next day had more to offer. I promise!

…to be continued

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-04-29

1. The largest national museum in France. Founded in 1793 and located in the 1st arrondissement of Paris. ↩︎
2. Mona Lisa (1503 – oil on panel) is the Renaissance artist Leonardo da Vinci’s most famous portrait of, according to tradition, the Florentine Lisa Gherardini, above all known for her mysterious smile. Louvre (since 1797). ↩︎
3. An ancient Greek marble sculpture that was created during the Hellenistic period. Between 160 and 110 BC. ↩︎

Fifty years plus one day – An early morning filled with excitement, all the way to the top. The day after and the day to see them. All artworks I’ve watched in books and read about, but not seen in real life – wow.

After a French, well-tasted breakfast at the hotel, we entered the metro, just outside the hotel. Through stations to an old station! After a couple of stations, we were home. Home of the impressionists’ house of artworks – Musée d’Orsay.

Musée d’Orsay is an art museum, inaugurated in 1886. Located in the 7th arrondissement. It’s a former railway station named Gare d’Orsay. The station was built in Beaux-Arts architecture between 1898 and 1900.

The queue of expectant visitors wound like a long train outside the station. Rising impressions like braking locomotives. Inside the walls, my expectations would be answered by oil on canvas and impressionists in a row on the walls.

Blocks had colored sections from red to green and grey. They resembled the colored room we entered in Versailles the day before. These sections were filled with artworks by the most famous artists in the mid-17th century. They featured these artworks instead of furniture from the baroque era.

To me, I felt like a child in a candy store. My favorite artists made my day. Artists like Van Gogh, Rodin, Gauguin, Renoir, Monet, and Jean-François Millet’s The Gleaners (1857) brought me joy.

From side to side, we walked and looked closer at every painting. We turned around a Rodin after a Rodin. Some of his artworks (statues) were like rounding marks to the next section. Sad maybe but I’ll get to him later – another day.

More than one hour on floor one, and hungry for more – heading for The main course. Up two floors, by stairs on heavy feet to the most important part of the museum. The Impressionists – worth seeing. One painting caught our attention even more, but not only ours attention.

A large gathering of people in front of a painting we all know. With tears in my eyes, tears of happiness, I finally got to see it. Van Gogh’s – The Bedroom (1889). There were many more artworks from him. There was another artwork from one of my favorite artists. It was Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s Bal du moulin de la Galette (1876) 🔝.

After four hours at The Musée d’Orsay, we were so satisfied that the visit could be done once more. I had a hard time leaving Vincent behind me. I remember how long time I spent writing a script for a lecture about him at the university. It was around 2006, I think. 17 years ago “wow”.

From Monet’s garden on canvas, the day was changed to a walk in a real garden. Good food and French wine turned into a visit to the Jardin des Plantes. It’s a zoo and a botanical garden, founded in 1587. Since 1794, it belongs to France’s National Museum of Natural History.

More art, lots of art and lots of history there would be. Day 3 ended. Tired but satisfied with most things, full. The next day had to come faster, as the trains at the Gare d’Orsay station did once. Tickets were booked long ago for what was coming the next day. Guess what?

…Mona Lisa’s day

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-04-03