Category: Memory & History

Teatervandringar på Ljungs slott: En unik historisk upplevelse
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Texten bygger på en tidigare engelsk version, nu bearbetad och återgiven på svenska. For the original English text, see [Theatrical Tours at Ljungs Castle: A Unique Historical Experience].
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Ljungs slott

Upplev 1700-talet på Ljungs slott i Östergötland. Besökare får utforska ståtliga salar, kök och hemliga rum, och Axel von Fersens kärleksbrev till Marie Antoinette får nytt liv. En eftermiddag fylld av skratt och historisk atmosfär – en tidsresa utöver det vanliga.

Slottet, färdigställdes år 1779, men byggandet påbörjades redan 1776 på initiativ av fältmarskalken och politikern Axel von Fersen den äldre. Arkitekten bakom det lokalt producerade slottet, var Jean Eric Rehn¹. Slottet är byggt av sten och tegel från trakten.

Skådespel, skådeplats

En teatervandring genom slottet görs av guider från föreningen Ljungs Slotts Bevarande. Såklart iklädda 1700-talskläder. Allt börjar i husets hjärta. I köket på nedervåningen.

Uppradad längs ena kortsidan i köket fick man följa skådespelet. Ett storslaget köket med spis, skafferi och porslinsskåp. En scen ur 1700-talets vardagsliv utspelades bland kökspigor och tjänare. De klagade på maten, skämtade om falska råttor i köket och någon tog en klunk ”medicin”. Skådespelet fortsatte.

På nedre plan finns även ett kafé, en utställning om Jean Erik Rehn och en museibutik. Entréhallen är i rokokoinspirerad stil.

En trappa upp, i den s.k. adelsvåningen, höll Axel von Fersen den äldre² och hans familj till. Våningen är inredd i ren gustaviansk stil³.

Adelsvåningen

I den stora matsalen med sina långbord, står en kakelugn och öppen spis i vardera kortsida vägg. Under 1700-talet kom kakelugnar att bli populära. På väggarna hänger porträtt av Fersensläktens medlemmar.

Matsalen, belägen på slottets norra sida, har fönster mot norr för att hålla rummet svalt under varma dagar. Efter en kort scen ur ett teaterstycke med ensemblen går man vidare till hertigens sovrum.

Axel von Fersen d.y.⁴ var lång och stilig, men sängen var bara 1,65 meter lång. Den hade sänghimmel för att skydda mot drag och kyla, och för att ge en viss avskildhet. Även i sovrummet uträttades behoven.

Under den pågående föreställningen kom jungfrun in och tog fram en pottskål under hertigens säng. Kärlet bars sedan upp till vinden och tömdes för att förhindra att lukten störde slottsinvånarna.

Från sovrummet ledde en dörr in till Axel von Fersen den yngres fängslande arbetsrum. Här skrev han brev till sin älskade Marie Antoinette med osynligt bläck. Jungfrun, som flitigt skötte om kontoret, avslöjade parets hemliga kodspråk i breven.

I de eleganta salongerna dansade herrarna och damerna. De rörde sig till hovfolkets musik. Musiken var troligen barock eller inspirerad av 1700-talets folkvisor. Den spelades från pianot intill. Deras perukprydda huvuden rörde sig i takt med melodin. Jag kan dock inte med säkerhet säga vilken musik de dansade till.

Guvernanten låg i nästa rum och vilade, plågad av huvudvärk och illamående. I sin omtanke erbjöd jungfrun henne ett huskurat vinblandat läkemedel. Jag minns att det innehöll rött och vitt vin. Det hade också kanelstänger och något mer. Det lät som en tröstande roséfärgad glögg. Den skulle kunna lätta hennes besvär.

Guiden visade upp sina tidsenliga kläder, med strumpor, kjolar, underkjolar och nattlinnen prydligt lager på lager. Hon gav oss en inblick i 1700-talets mode. Hon förklarade att en mouche var en viktig del av modet. Det var ett litet skönhetsmärke format som en fluga. Mouchen hade både praktiska och estetiska syften och symboliserade status. Guiden placerade sin mouche på högra kinden.

Avslutning

Den timslånga guidade turen, med inslag av teater, avslutades med en känsla av tidsresa. Vi fick möta 1700-talsdamerna i deras praktfulla dräkter och lyssnade fascinerat på de gripande berättelserna om både slottet och Fersensläkten.

Tillbaka på nedervåningen, bland rokokodetaljerna, återvände jag till 2000-talet. Mitt fokus skiftade nu till museibutiken och Ljungs kyrka, där många Fersensläkter vilar.

Källor
© Björn Blomqvist 2025-07-13
1. Jean Eric Rehn (1717–1793) var en central gestalt inom svensk arkitektur under gustaviansk tid. Han förde övergången från lekfull rokoko till stramare nyklassicism inspirerad av antikens ideal. Efter studier i Paris blev han hovintendent och professor vid Konstakademien, och hans stil kom att prägla den gustavianska estetiken. ↩︎
2. Axel von Fersen den äldre (1719–1794) var greve, militär och diplomat. Han var ambassadör i Frankrike och medlem av riksrådet. Som en ledande företrädare för hattpartiet drev han en profransk, monarkistisk politik. Han var far till Axel von Fersen den yngre. ↩︎
3. Gustaviansk stil är den svenska tolkningen av fransk nyklassicism under Gustav III:s tid (ca 1770–1810). Ljusa färger, raka linjer och klassiska motiv som urnor och band präglar stilen, som förenar enkelhet och elegans. ↩︎
4. Axel von Fersen den yngre (1755–1810) var adelsman och officer med internationell karriär. Han umgicks i franska hovet och blev nära vän med Marie Antoinette – ryktet säger även älskare. Han deltog i planeringen av kungafamiljens flykt under franska revolutionen och blev senare riksmarskalk i Sverige. Hans brev och dagböcker ger en unik inblick i 1700-talets Europa. ↩︎
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8 December, 2025

Aesthetic reflections, Architecture, 🇸🇪, History, Landscape, Museum visit, Sweden
Julita gård – en uppslukande historisk upplevelse
Texten bygger på en tidigare engelsk version, nu bearbetad och återgiven på svenska. For the original English text, see [Exploring Julita Manor: An Immersive Historical Experience].

Julita Gård

Julita gård, med anor från 1100-talet, speglar svensk kulturhistoria genom medeltida klosterliv och herrgårdsliv från 1900-talet. Guidade visningar avslöjar gårdens hemligheter och berättelser från Arthur Bäckströms tid.

Vinden blåste härligt från väster och vågorna på sjön Öljaren var höga. Jag såg verkligen fram emot en fantastisk utflykt till Julita gård. Platsen har en historia som sträcker sig till 1100-talet.

Julita gård är en betydelsefull historisk plats som ligger drygt en timmes bilfärd hemifrån. Idag ingår den i Nordiska museets samlingar, dit den donerades av sin senaste ägare, löjtnant Arthur Bäckström.

Vandring i tid och rum

Ensam och förväntansfull stod jag där (sommaren 2024). Bara jag och guiden. En privat visning, nästan som en dröm! Vad jag fick veta från guidningen, är det jag kommer delge er här. Det är mina intryck och mina betraktelser!

Det så kallade stora huset, där guideturen startar, är betydligt yngre än platsen, vilket ger den en spännande historia. Huvudbyggnaden uppfördes på 1600-talet. Huset brann ned under mitten av 1700-talet, men ett nytt hus uppfördes på samma plats, senare under 1700-talet.

Gården köptes på auktion av Arthur Bäckströms föräldrar, år 1892 från familjen Palbitzki. Vid köpet var huset helt tomt. Det gav familjen Bäckström en fantastisk möjlighet. De kunde sätta sin egen prägel på gården – både på exteriören och de tillhörande byggnaderna. De gjorde även inredningen personlig och skapade ett varmt och inbjudande hem. Enligt guiden.

Tiden före Arthur

Klädd i tidsenliga kläder berättade guiden med en fängslande passion om huset — enbart för mig. I det inledande anförandet sades det att kung Knut Eriksson donerade gården Säby år 1180. Gården omfattar en betydande del av Julita socken.

Donationerna tillföll cistercienserorden. Munkarna uppförde ett kloster på den plats där herrgården nu står. De konstruerade ett valv på den plats där den södra flygeln är belägen.

I den södra flygeln, ovanför valven, finns ett imponerande kök, där maten till alla på gården tillagades med stor omsorg. Ett andra kök finns också i den norra flygeln. Ibland fungerade det även som ett välkomnande soppkök för luffare och andra förbipasserande.

Under reformationen på 1500-talet, när Gustav Vasa regerade, stängdes klostren. Tidigare hade klostren varit viktiga för lärande och andlighet i Sverige. Landet blev lutherskt, vilket förändrade det religiösa och politiska landskapet. Staten fick mer makt över kyrkan och dess tillgångar. Julita blev ett kronohemman, vilket påverkade den lokala befolkningen och ekonomin. Kungamakten fick styra klosterjordarna och omfördela resurser för att stärka sin makt.

Jag vet en del om Gustav Vasa. Men jag hade ingen aning om att han tillbringade sina sista två veckor på just Julita. Under tiden han var där, var han sjuk. med sig hade han ett följe på 200 hästar. Det är inte helt klart om sjukdomen han drabbades av under resan dit var den som ledde till hans bortgång. Guiden kunde tyvärr inte ge några svar på den frågan.

Arthurs Bäckströms tid

Arthur Bäckström övertog gården 1902 efter sin far, Johan Bäckström. Arthur arrenderade den med stor entusiasm och hängivenhet fram till sin död 1941. Detta skapade en stolt tradition som fortsätter att inspirera. Under Arthurs tid byggdes bland annat en kuskbostad, ett stall samt ett vagnsgarage.

Arthur hade inga egna barn, men många hundar. De var inte bara husdjur, utan också en integrerad del av hans liv och hans familj. Enligt vad guiden sa, vilar hundarna på samma heliga plats som Arthur själv, i evig gemenskap.

Arthur var verkligen en omtänksam person! 1 600 luffare kom förbi hans gård under ett och samma år. Han brydde sig om de fattiga och hungriga － en bra gest, enligt guiden. Hans önskan att hjälpa till var genuin. Han ville se till att alla levde gott, både de som behövde stöd och de som arbetade på gården. Han ville att alla skulle känna sig värdefulla.

Porträtt av Arthur Bäckström, målat av Bernhard Östergren 1935.

Stora huset

Första våningen (markplan) i huvudbyggnaden var Arthurs privata del. Guiden berättade återigen, entusiastiskt om hur viktiga hans hundar var för honom. Varje morgon njöt han också av rabarberjuice, en god start på dagen, helt enkelt. På bordet bredvid sängen står en kanna som bekräftar berättelsen.

Jag ställde många frågor, vilket gjorde att jag lärde mig mycket och kände mig inspirerad. Vad fick jag mer veta?

Jo, i ena änden av våningen finns Arthurs frukostrum, och i den andra änden finns hans sovrum. Däremellan finns ett sällskapsrum där dignitärer möttes för att prata, njuta av cigarrer och spela kort. Kanske diskuterades affärer och politik där?

På våning två möttes jag av en vacker salong och en matsal. De var fyllda med Rörstrands-porslin och glas med Arthurs sigill på. Jag frågade såklart guiden om glasen kom från Reijmyre glasbruk, som grundades år 1810 och ligger inte så långt härifrån. Guiden visste inte, så den frågan får framtida besökare själva undersöka.

I det så kallade Julitarummet hänger en imponerande målning av Julita krutverk. I krutverkets verkstad tillverkade man läderkanoner. Ja, hör och häpna! Detta var en banbrytande uppfinning som avsåg att göra kanoner mycket lättare att transportera på slagfältet. Tyvärr blev projektet ett misslyckande, eftersom krutblandningen ofta exploderade.

Målningen är en kopia, berättade guiden. Originalet kan beskådas på Rijksmuseet i Amsterdam. Jag besökte det museet våren 2023. Jag beundrade verket utan att tänka på att det var originalet till verket jag nu står framför. Vilken slump?

På översta våningen finns ett underbart bibliotek, ett gästvänligt gästrum och en rymlig salong. Biblioteket rymmer över 5 000 volymer, vilket säkerligen är en glädje för alla vetgiriga besökare. De stora koffertarna vid gästrummets entré, berättar om spännande långväga resor.

Det var inte bara besökare och luffare som var där. Även de anställda. De flesta av gårdens 150 arbetare bodde i området. Många var torpare och hade förmånen att bo i något av de 80 torpen.

Henning Forsman

En som ofta omnämndes var gårdssnickaren Henning Forsman. Största delen av herrgårdens möbler är tillverkade av honom. I hans verkstad, belägen i utkanten, fanns ingen elektricitet, fick jag veta. Allt arbete utfördes för hand och med mekaniska maskiner.

I herrgården (stora huset) fanns det däremot el. Guiden pekade entusiastiskt på lamporna i taket – utan lampskärmar, just för att kunna visa att huset hade elektriskt ljus.

Forsmans uppdrag var att skapa möbler för herrskapet i en rad olika historiska stilar. Mycket av möblemanget i huset bär hans osynliga signatur av finess och elegans. Guiden visade stolar i empirestil, med majestätiska lejonfötter. Dekorerade med tofsar.

På egen hand

Efter en timmes guidning lämnade jag huset. Den stora trädgården breder ut sig framför mig. Ett lusthus är synligt i fjärran. Det är en kopia, som guiden poängterade. Originalet är beläget på Skansen.

Många intryck rikare fortsatte jag det spännande utforskandet av området. Nu utan guide och efter eget intresse. Orangeri, museum och kyrka är verkligen några av de fantastiska byggnader som bör besökas – och självklart ett mysigt kafé! Kaffet var nästan dyrare än inträdet, men den vänliga personalen gjorde upplevelsen värdefull.

Intill kyrkan ligger det förtrollande Julita Skans hembygdsmuseum, en skattkammare av historia och kultur. Där öppnar Arthur Bäckström lyckligt sitt hjärta och sin privata samling, som gnistrar av minnen och historier. Men det är inte allt!

En mindre, men kraftfull konstutställning har också funnit sin väg hit. ”Äntligen!” utbrister jag inombords, ”lite modern konst som väcker liv och känslor.” Utställningen ligger en trappa upp i museets gastkramande entrébyggnad. Utställningen framhäver imponerande verk av lokala konstnärer i Katrineholms kommun, inklusive Julita. Den arrangeras av den ideella föreningen KIKK (Konstnärer i Katrineholms Kommun).

Museibyggnaden är härligt sammanbyggd med gårdens kyrka via en liten, charmig innergård. Kyrkporten, som sig bör, vetter mot väster – mot det glittrande Öljaren.

Det stora huset är beläget i öster, vilket även gäller kyrkans altare. Besökare färdas således från väst till öst – från mörker mot ljus – när de passerar genom porten till altaret. Kyrkor har traditionellt konstruerats med altaret riktat mot öster, den riktning där solen stiger.

Kyrkan, eller snarare kapellet, är uppfört i trä i enlighet med Arthurs egna visioner. Inuti anordnas träbänkar och ett altare i öster. Byggnaden, som är liten och stillsam, präglas av ett fristående klocktorn (kampanil) intill.

Dagen avslutades med ett besök i orangeriet och det närbelägna tegelbruket. Några blommor inhandlades innan sista stoppet. Museibutiken.

Källor
- Julita Gård. Nordiska museets förlag 2019 (2:a upplagan)
- https://www.julitagard.se/om-julita-gard/
- https://www.nordiskamuseet.se/besok-oss/besoksmal/julita-gard/
- https://www.julitagard.se/byggnader/
- https://www.julitagard.se/om-julita-gard/vem-var-arthur-backstrom/
- https://www.julitagard.se/om-julita-gard/julita-gards-historia/
- https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julita_gård
© Björn Blomqvist 2025-11-11
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11 November, 2025

Architecture, Contemplation, Cultural heritage, 🇸🇪, History, Landscape, Museum visit, Sweden
Upptäck Stora Sundby Slott: En Tidsresa
Texten bygger på en tidigare engelsk version, nu bearbetad och återgiven på svenska. For the original English text, see [Exploring Stora Sundby Castle].

Stora Sundby skott

Stora Sundby slott reser sig som en dröm ur sagornas värld, bara en och en halv timme bort från vardagen. Bakom dess murar döljer sig sekler av makt och kärlek. Från medeltida fästning till romantiskt sagoslott.

På schemat stod Stora Sundby slott! Slottet står präktigt här i Sörmland, vilket väckte en varm känsla av hemhörighet. Bilresan dit tog en timme och trettio minuter. Fast besluten att ta in allt som guiden hade att berätta, skulle jag komma därifrån allt rikare på historiska intryck.

På slottet bor 4:e generationen av familjen Klingspor. Av privata skäl, är fotografering inomhus inte tillåten. Slottet är yngre än tidigare slott jag besökt. Det bär på en rik historia som sträcker ända till 1200-talet. Slottet omges av en storslagen park och vidsträckta jaktmarker. Med en engagerad guide fick jag inblick i slottets rika historia. Jag ser fram emot att dela dessa tankar med er.

En plats med rötter i 1200-talet

Stora Sundby har sina anor från 1200-talet. Sjön Hjälmaren, vars strand slottet ligger vid, är Sveriges fjärde största sjö. Den var betydligt större på 1300-talet än i dag. Maktkamperna som avlöste varandra under 1300-talet, förekom även här. Det var en orolig tid med kungar och hertigar i konflikt.

Redan på 1200-talet, uppfördes ett försvarstorn här. Det första egentliga slottet byggdes på 1500-talet under ledning av Lars Siggeson Sparre. Familjen Sparre kom att spela en avgörande roll för Stora Sundbys utveckling. Under flera sekler lade de grunden till ett storslaget arv. Det var på 1600-talet som den den berömda riddarsalen tillkom. Det är hjärtat i slottets historia.

Den romantisk omvandlingen

I början av 1800-talet kom Carl de Geer till Stora Sundby, då en av Sveriges rikaste män. Hans dotter behövde ett eget hem, och planerna på ett nytt slott tog form. Men Carls hustru, Ulrika Sofia Sprengtporten, hade helt andra idéer.

Sofias vision för slottet föddes ur de riddarromaner av Sir Walter Scott, hon hade läst. Hon drömde om ett romantiskt slott som taget ur litteraturens värld. Inspirationen sägs vara Walter Scotts hem Abbotsford. Noterat: (att enligt guiden är det det samma arkitekt som skapat de båda slottet, men jag är källkritisk till det.) Är det verkligen så? Slottet är vad det är (ett kalenderslott) och kommer vara det för lång tid framöver.

Stora Sundby blev ett så kallat kalenderslott, en symbol för tidens gång. De fyra stora tornen representerar årstiderna, de tolv små tornen, årets månader. Slottet har dessutom 52 rum och 365 fönster. Det är lika många rum som årets veckor. Det finns en dag för varje fönster likaså. En arkitektonisk hyllning till tiden helt enkelt, eller som guiden sa; “Ett fönster om dagen att tvätta”.

En vandring genom historien¹

Första stoppet var riddarsalen – slottets hjärta. Att stiga in där, var som att färdas tillbaka till 1600-talet. Väggarna pryds av målningar i läder, och som skildrar Kartagos fall, skapade under de Geer-eran.

På en vägg hänger ett porträtt av Karl XIV Johan. Han var den förste Bernadotten. Han var också den franske soldaten som blev svensk kung. Taket i salen höjdes upp under ombyggnaden för att ge plats åt en praktfull takmålning i de Geer-stil. Där i taket, tronar Sparres vapensköldar som ett monument över familjens historia.

Nästa stopp var matsalen – enkel men fylld av charm. I ett hörn står en kakelugn som tycks ha överlevt seklerna utan att förlora sin charm. Väggarna är klädda med kalvskinnstapeter. Guiden berättade på ett poetiskt sätt hur varje fyrkant i tapeten representerar en kalv. Det var som om varje del hade sin egen berättelse. “I skenet av levande ljus lär tapeterna ha skimrat på ett närmast magiskt sätt”.

I följande rum blev stämningen plötsligt mer familjär, nästan komisk – som i en familjescen ur en tv-serie. Släkthistorierna flödade: vem gifte sig med vem, vilka allianser skapades? I det röda rummet däremot, har delar av tv-serien Young Royals spelats in..

Slottets hemligheter

Endast ett fåtal av slottets 52 rum ingår i rundturen. Man fick höra både skvaller och legender om familjerna Sparre, de Geer och Klingspor. De utsmyckade salarna konkurrerade med berättelserna själva. I ett av de sista rummen skimrade svagt upplysta 1700-talsmålningar av en italiensk konstnär. Hans namn föll i glömska i stunden. Kanske på grund av den nästan spöklika stämningen där.

Plötsligt stod jag åter på borggården, fylld av samtal om spöken och hemliga gångar. Men finns det verkligen det och ett stort bibliotek? Jo, det finns ett bibliotek, dock inte stort – och detaljerna kring de hemliga gångarna förblir höljda i dunkel. Det gör platsen ännu mer fängslande. Förhoppningen är att fler delar av slottet en dag öppnas för allmänheten.

Stora Sundby slott bär på fler berättelser som väntar på att bli berättade.

Sammanfattning

Besöket på Stora Sundby slott var en tidsresa genom 1200-talets och 1800-talets stil. Med sina fyra torn och 365 fönster är slottet som en levande kalender. Guiden delade familjernas historia, makt och kultur. Riddarsalen och de mindre rummen berättade om svunna tider och personliga historier. Även om få rum är öppna, upplevs mystik och fantasi kring hemliga gångar och spöken. Slottet är både ett arkitektoniskt mästerverk och en del av Sveriges historia.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-11-06
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6 November, 2025

Architecture, Art history, Cultural heritage, 🇸🇪, History, Landscape, Museum visit, Personal reflection, Sweden
U-turn back in time in double meaning － Part ⓸
The fourth day concludes our journey from Karlshamn to Kalmar. The road is lined with historical sites and new discoveries. We visit Ronneby Brunn, a 18th-century spa, and Kristianopel, a Danish fortress. At Kalmar Castle, we witness Sweden’s might during the Great Power Era.

Day four, and it’s time to head home. Leaving Karlshamn feels a bit sad. I wish I had spent more time reliving those cherished memories. Unlike our previous journey, this time we took the coastal road along the east coast. The route here was more inland, traversing the entire length of this vast country.

The journey home offers two exciting perspectives. Firstly, embracing the variation along the coastal road adds a refreshing twist to our travels. Secondly, it presents a wonderful opportunity to explore additional historical sites. Each site along the way is eager to share its stories. These stories promise to enrich our understanding of history. They also ignite our curiosity.

I find myself pondering several questions: What have they conveyed to us visitors? What is genuinely new, and what do we already find all too familiar? Are there any genuine historical or lived experience connections between them, or is it merely a pretense?

The historic Ronneby Brunn building’s facade, adorned with architectural details and surrounded by lush greenery, exudes a sense of grandeur.

Ronneby Brunn

The first place we stopped at wasn’t particularly spectacular. There was a park, a beach, and a hotel with some older historical buildings, in my opinion. But…

Ronneby Brunn, a park with over 300 years of history, is one of Blekinge’s renowned landmarks. It boasts lush green spaces, ancient trees, and charming wooden structures dating back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. The park’s significance grew further in 1705. The first health spring was discovered then. This discovery transformed it into Sweden’s largest spa resort during the 19th century.

Brunnsparken, a protected heritage site since 1996 and a cultural reserve since 2003, boasts a rich history. It once featured bathing houses, a spring hall, and a grand hotel. Although the park declined in the 20th century and spa activities ceased, it preserved many significant historical buildings. Today, Brunnsparken remains an important cultural heritage site and recreational destination.

A tranquil wooden bridge, nestled amidst the verdant greenery of Brunnsparken, a historical park in Ronneby, offers a serene escape.

We had a delightful stroll through the park, surrounded by the charm of old buildings. We received an inspiring tip. Eagerly, we set off to explore the enchanting place known as Kristianopel. It is not far from our location.

Kristianopel

We decided to take a different route and bypassed the national road to Karlskrona. Instead, we opted for smaller, more challenging roads. However, we couldn’t help but wonder if we truly needed to take this detour. Now that we’ve arrived in Kristianopel, we can’t help but wonder about the significance of this place. What do the so-called historians have to say about it?

An old cannon is on display in Kristianopel. It serves as a testament to the town’s historical significance as a former border stronghold.

Kristianopel was established in 1600 during the reign of King Christian IV. It stands as the first Renaissance city in the Nordic region. It was designed as a border stronghold against Sweden. The city boasted a rectangular street layout. It was fortified by a wall with nine bastions. By the 1660s, its population had reached approximately 600.

The city underwent reconstruction after an incursion by troops led by Gustav II Adolf in 1611. The Treaty of Roskilde in 1658 reduced its strategic importance. As a result, the walls were dismantled during the 18th century. Throughout the 19th century, the city’s economy thrived through fishing, trade, and various crafts. The restoration of the walls took place in the 1930s.

Kristianopel offers a tranquil view of its coastal beauty and historical significance, as reflected in the serene landscape.

Here’s what I discovered about this location. It has limited remaining structures. However, don’t be deceived into thinking there’s nothing to explore. Delve into its history, and you’ll uncover a treasure trove of hidden stories waiting to be revealed. And of course, there’s an intriguing connection to the next historical site.

We were eagerly on our way to our next destination, our hunger fueling our anticipation. As we journeyed, we crossed a captivating historic border between Denmark and Sweden. It was incredible to contemplate Kristianopel, a city that once belonged to Denmark until the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658. Today, Kristianopel stands as a testament to the past. In contrast, Kalmar Castle proudly displayed the rich history of the Swedish side.

Kalmar Castle, a stunning example of impressive architecture and historical significance, stands as one of Sweden’s best-preserved Renaissance castles.

We’ve found ourselves in Kalmar, Sweden, at one of its most well-preserved castles, dating back to the 12th century.

Kalmar Castle

Kalmar Castle, a magnificent testament to history, was constructed in the late 11th century. By the end of the 12th century, it had undergone a transformation, adorned with imposing fortifications and majestic buildings. Beyond its architectural grandeur, the castle served as a vibrant hub of Nordic political intrigue. Its pivotal role in shaping the Kalmar Union in 1397 underscores its significance in the region’s history.

Discover the historic interiors of Kalmar Castle, where medieval architecture and rich heritage come alive.

This era is filled with the fervor of the Swedish Middle Ages. It is characterized by the rise and fall of kings. The fierce brotherly bonds echo through time. Among the notable events of this period is the legendary Nyköping Banquet held in 1317 in my beloved hometown, Nyköping. This banquet was a true feast of history and passion, leaving an indelible mark on the annals of time.

During the 1500s and 1600s, Kalmar Castle underwent grand Renaissance renovations, adding impressive new wings and towers. This era also witnessed the rise of Kristianopel across the border. However, in the 1600s and 1700s, the castle began to deteriorate and was partially repurposed as a prison and distillery. By the mid-19th century, extensive restoration work commenced. Since then, Kalmar Castle has proudly stood as one of Sweden’s best-preserved Renaissance castles.

The dining hall of Kalmar Castle is adorned with a long table set for a grand feast. It stands as a testament to the castle’s historical significance. It was a prestigious venue for kings and dignitaries. This reflects the castle’s role as a center of power and influence.

In the evenings, you can enjoy free entry, allowing you to leisurely explore the castle’s charming inner courtyard. However, all exhibitions are closed during this time. The cannon-adorned ramparts may not offer much to see. However, it’s still worth visiting the exhibitions within the castle during the day. Remember, there’s a ticket price of 180 kr per adult (approximately 19 usd). Despite the ticket price, the enriching experiences inside truly make it worthwhile.

We paid our entrance fee and, with growling stomachs, ventured into the endless exhibitions within the castle. The exhibits were overwhelming, and the sheer number of them made it difficult to navigate. In each room, I couldn’t resist snapping photos and immersing myself in the charged historical atmosphere that lingered. Despite our efforts, we left the dining hall and kitchen feeling unsatisfied, if anything, we were left ravenous. The castle was the epicenter of power for kings and dukes. Among them, Erik XIV stood out as the most notable. We felt like mere shadows in his grand tale.

Journey home

If we were feeling tired, it’s understandable. The journey ahead is long, and more than half the distance remains. This means we’ll have a few more hours in the car along the E22. A cozy nap in the bed above would be a welcome relief, but of course, that might attract some attention. We’ll have the chance to rest when we finally get home and have satisfied our hunger.

Then, we can fully recharge for all the incredible adventures that await us just around the corner! A vibrant blend of art, culture, and magnificent architecture beckons us, eager to ignite our creativity in extraordinary ways. There are numerous castles and enchanting locations. Poetic experiences are also on the horizon. This presents the ideal opportunity to immerse ourselves once more.

I’m eager to rekindle the original essence of this blog. I embarked on this artistic journey 15 years ago, brimming with excitement to share my insights with you. While I’ve shared some fascinating content, I recognize that there are countless remarkable discoveries yet to be made. It’s time to bring these reflections back into the limelight!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-30
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30 September, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
U-turn back in time in double meaning － Part ⓷
The journey south culminates in Karlshamn, the city where it all began. Familiar streets and buildings evoke cherished memories. Museums narrate the city’s rich history, from 18th-century trading houses to its peak in margarine and punch.

The primary reason for my trip to southern Sweden was to visit family and friends. Additionally, I was eager to explore the region’s historical sites.

Another purpose of the trip was to joyfully revisit the city where I lived for a few wonderful years. It’s where I attended high school and proudly graduated. In Karlshamn, cherished memories resurface, and the vibrant history of the city comes alive.

The questions that plagued me were: What are there to revisit? What can I share with others? What is new, or what have I overlooked?

Karlshamn’s historic town hall, with its charming architecture and enduring presence, stands as a testament to the town’s rich heritage.

The square retains its original charm, with the ground, town hall, and church remaining unchanged. They seem frozen in time, like a time capsule. The kiosk in the center now boasts a stylish facade, possibly auditioning for a reality show. One end used to house a Pressbyrån, where you could quickly grab a sandwich. The other end had a sausage stand, the town’s best-kept secret! Now, it’s an Espresso House. Who needs bratwurst when you can indulge in lattes? You can even attempt to decipher macchiatos from flat whites. It’s a minor change, but it adds a touch of modernity to the square.

Everything else was just as I remembered—like a time capsule that had missed the memo about modernization. A church and an old Town Hall still stood, presumably unaware of the need for renovations. The school remained, like an overprotective parent. Stepping back felt like a high school reunion in the 1990s. Yes, my childhood home stood next to the emigration monument, likely rolling its eyes at all the nostalgia.

The interior of a historical grocery store exudes a nostalgic charm, reminiscent of the 18th century. Traditional pottery and kitchenware adorn the walls, creating an ambiance that transports visitors back in time.

There were no significant changes to note. My anecdotes from that time reignited memories for my fellow travelers. Nothing new under the sun. This was true in many places. The police station, hospital, and dentist were all located in the same spot.

The variety of shops, restaurants, and residential areas feels refreshingly new. Even McDonald’s has made its way here. It wasn’t here when I lived here. It’s been 30 years since I moved away, and everything has undergone its own unique transformation. The butter factory is no longer standing, and the harbor warehouse where Motörhead performed in December 1993 is also gone. That was the same year I graduated.

Skottbersgska gården, a well-preserved historical shop, showcases artifacts and furniture from its trading days between 1766 and 1945.

It’s comforting to know that my partner has a deeper appreciation for the diverse cultural offerings. I can still recall my younger self in Karlshamn over 30 years ago, when museums weren’t even on my radar. I was just a wandering teenager, trying to find my place in the world.

With a single ticket, you can visit three different museums in the city. First, head to Skottberg’s Farm shop, a well-preserved general store that has been trading since 1766 until 1945. The rooms filled with furniture and furnishings transport you back in time. The general store is particularly interesting.

The museum in Karlshamn showcases a collection of vintage typewriters, highlighting the city’s rich history in typewriter manufacturing.

We had more museums to visit, of course. Another thing I missed while living in the city was that the ticket price included three museums. The second one was the city museum. Surprisingly, it looked small from the outside, but inside, the exhibitions seemed endless.

There were room after room, exhibition after exhibition, and a journey through the city’s rich history. This city had accomplished so much throughout its long history, and I was eager to explore it all. There were a few sights I was familiar with from my stay in the city in the 1990s. But there were also things that I had no idea about, and I was excited to discover them.

This nostalgic exhibit showcases the local dairy heritage in Karlshamn through a collection of butter packaging and dairy products.

Once upon a time, I was aware that typewriters were manufactured here. The factory likely succumbed to the advent of the computer era. The brand was Facit-Halda. I even owned a Facit typewriter myself. I can almost picture myself sitting at a small table with a window, overlooking a breathtaking mountainous landscape. There, I would immerse myself in writing a novel. Imagine the experience of using such an old typewriter. Feel the satisfying clatter of keys as you fill the paper with words and meaning.

They also produced butter here. Most people who have lived in modern times are aware of this. As a child, I recall hearing advertisements for Karlshamn’s margarine on TV. The two farmer brothers would utter the phrase “Gott, Gotti gott gott” in the ad. In English, it translates to “Tasty, yummy, yummy.”

Inside the historic punch museum in Karlshamn, visitors can explore artifacts and tools that reflect the city’s rich beverage-making heritage.

The commencement of granite slab production at this location marked its international debut. It played a significant role in constructing the esteemed US Marine Corps War Memorial. The memorial is located at Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia. This memorial serves as a tribute to all who have served in the Marine Corps since 1775.

Granite was supplied by AB A.K. Fernströms Granitindustrier, a Swedish stone industry company based in Karlshamn. The site offered a plethora of attractions, including a museum that I vaguely recall visiting in the past. This museum, aptly named the Punch Museum, holds a special place in Karlshamn’s history. The city has long been renowned for its punch. Its origins date back to 1815.

It was a quick museum visit, just like this post. I headed back to the harbor. The area has changed with new road constructions and a slightly different appearance. It’s not quite how I remember it from when I lived here. Reliving the city was enjoyable and refreshing. I’ll definitely return someday. The rest of the day was spent hanging out with family and having a meal at some restaurants in Sölvesborg.

Tomorrow, we embark on an exhilarating journey homeward, but this adventure is far from over! Along the way, we’ll encounter a treasure trove of historic sites, each with its own captivating story to share. Prepare to be enthralled by the tales that lie ahead…

…until we meet again.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-20
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20 September, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
U-turn back in time in double meaning － Part ⓶
The journey continues to Kåseberga, where the landscape meets the sea, and history’s winds blow. At Ales stenar, we discover Sweden’s largest presterade ship setting, a place steeped in myth and archaeology. The trip along the coast takes us to Simrishamn. We then head to Karlshamn. In these places, memories and the scent of the sea linger in the air.

The journey continues! We spent a few hours exploring the charming cobblestone streets of Ystad. After that, we headed to Ales Stenar, a short distance away. Now, let me explain Ales Stenar in a simple and engaging manner, without boring you.

This close-up image showcases one of the standing stones at Ales stenar, Sweden’s largest preserved ship setting. Dating back to the Vendel period, this ancient monument offers a glimpse into the maritime history of the region.

Ales stenar, a towering structure situated a few miles away, stands amidst hundreds of people. Several hang gliders gracefully circled above us, making it a popular destination for gliding from the cliffs.

From an overcrowded parking lot, the road to the site stretched nearly a kilometer. The narrow path was bustling with visitors jostling to reach the top, while others hurried back to their cars.

What are Ales stenar, then? It’s a ship setting comprising 59 stones, each weighing approximately 5 tons. The formation measures approximately 67 meters in length and 19 meters in width, making it Sweden’s largest preserved ship setting. The stones date back to the Vendel period (around 540–790 AD). They are made of granite and sandstone. At the front, there is a prominent white quartzite stone. Despite the absence of a grave, its purpose remains uncertain, but it is widely regarded as a grave monument.

It didn’t seem to end there, and I suppose we weren’t going home just yet. They claimed that a fishing harbor lies along the narrow path down from the 32-meter high cliff. There are fishing shacks, restaurants, and a dock—if you can call it that. We wandered there. I guess we decided to try the local cuisine. We especially wanted to taste the smoked fish in all its supposed forms.

The intoxicating aroma of smoked fish mingled with the invigorating scent of the sea as we strolled along the quay. Every tempting offering for tourists beckoned us, sparking our curiosity. We lost track of time at the magnificent Ales stones for two hours. Afterward, we set off in our car.

Excitement bubbled within us as we drove towards Simrishamn. Finally, we returned to Karlshamn, where I spent cherished years of my youth in high school. This journey was steeped in history. It became a profound exploration of time. It echoed my personal history and the tales of ages past.

Exciting details await in the next part!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-18
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18 September, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
U-turn back in time in double meaning － Part ⓵
The journey traverses southern Sweden, beginning at Gränna’s peppermint hills and culminating at the Brahehus ruins. It then proceeds to Ystad’s cobblestone streets and Ales stenar. This journey intricately weaves together landscapes, history, and the echoes of exploration.

Growing up in this expansive country, I embarked on countless long journeys. This time, my heart guided me south and back, embarking on a thrilling adventure. From a map’s perspective, it’s a mesmerizing journey south, followed by a dramatic U-turn back to the north. This encapsulates the essence of exploration.

We spent five exhilarating hours in the car, the enchanting scent of peppermint candies wafting through the air in Gränna. The breathtaking ruin of Brahehus stood proudly, marking our journey through the captivating southern parts of Sweden.

From the charming towns of Ystad and Simrishamn, we embark on a thrilling journey to Karlshamn. Every moment beckons us onward, leading us to the picturesque east coast.

Nestled between the city’s charming cobblestone streets, I find myself in a small square, feeling like Kurt Wallander. He joyfully strolled on the vibrant streets of Ystad. He dedicated his efforts to the city’s busy police station. Together, these actions fostered a sense of community and connection.

The fictional criminal inspector Kurt Wallander is the protagonist of Henning Mankell’s delightful detective novels. He has enthusiastically solved murder mysteries in fiction. These mysteries unfold right here in the city. As I savor my potato salad, I eagerly chew and reminisce about the exciting books. They feature the opera enthusiast who tackles case after intriguing case.

I’ve delved into several of the books, and naturally, I’ve been captivated by the TV series inspired by them. Countless episodes have come to life right here, filling the air with intrigue and suspense.

Let’s delve back into that captivating city. It is where Inspector Kurt Wallander roamed the streets. He meticulously unraveled the intricate puzzles of murder. What precisely makes this city so extraordinary and etched in our memories?

This traditional half-timbered house in southern Sweden showcases the architectural charm of the region.

The captivating style of the houses set against the sea enthralls me. Ferries conveniently transport you to Poland, Germany, and Bornholm from this picturesque location. The abundance of half-timbered houses, each a testament to timeless craftsmanship, evokes a rich history. Timber beams splinter the landscape, supporting structures filled with brick or stone. These structures weave a captivating story of beauty and resilience.

Architectural history reveals resource variations across different regions of the country during the early Middle Ages. Some areas had abundant stone, while others had more wood. Consequently, wooden houses became prevalent in Norrland, a region with extensive forests. In contrast, southern Sweden, particularly Gotland, faced limited wood availability. This scarcity necessitated the increased use of brick and stone in construction. Gotland serves as a prime example of this trend.

The historic monastery in Ystad, a well-preserved medieval site, is surrounded by charming gardens.

Ystad has origins dating back to the medieval period. It boasts a remarkable monastery and garden. These are must-visit attractions. During our tour, we explored both the monastery and the garden. They are among Sweden’s finest examples of well-preserved medieval monastic establishments. The monastery was established around 1267 by Franciscan monks, known as Greyfriars. However, after the Reformation, it underwent various transformations. It was repurposed for different purposes. These purposes included serving as a hospital and a prison.

Today, it serves as a museum and cultural center. It features a renowned garden. The exhibitions showcase the city’s rich history.

We didn’t have time for distractions like the museum or cultural center; we were completely focused on Ales stenar, a place of immense significance that won’t be overlooked 😉

I’m thrilled to delve deeper into the subject in the upcoming segment!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-09-16

References
- https://www.visitsmaland.se/en/destinations/granna/
- https://jonkopingslansmuseum.se/se-och-gora/smultronstallen/jonkoping/brahehus/
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16 September, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
Exploring Stora Sundby Castle: A Journey Through History
Stora Sundby castle stands like a dream from fairy tales, just an hour and a half from everyday life. Behind its walls are centuries of power and love. The castle changed from a medieval fortress to a romantic place with 365 windows. A meeting with the architecture of time.

On the menu today was Stora Sundby Castle! It is located in my county, which sparks a sense of longing for home! It’s just a drive of 1 hour and 30 minutes. I felt the anticipation grow along the way there. I was determined to absorb everything the guide had to share!

In the castle resides the fourth generation of the Klingspor family, which unfortunately makes photography within these historic walls prohibited. The castle, younger than the earlier one we visited, still carries a rich history from the 13th century. The biggest challenge during the visit was the brilliant sunshine, which created a magical atmosphere.

The castle is surrounded by a magnificent park, accompanied by endless hunting grounds. There, we lost ourselves in the flow of time, while the sun caressed our necks with its golden rays. Inside the castle’s rooms, the air was cool and filled with history, which deepened our adventure. We spent an hour inside the castle, a fantastic experience! With an engaging guide, we gained insight into the castle’s history. I look ahead to sharing the insights that emerged during the tour.

Exterior view of Stora Sundby Castle, showcasing its stunning architecture and surrounding landscape.

The place has roots from the 13th century. The lake where the castle is situated, Hjälmaren, is Sweden’s fourth largest. It’s crazy that the lake was much larger in the 14th century than it is now! I instantly understood that there was once a struggle for power where the castle stands. It was indeed a thing during the 14th century, with kings and dukes fighting for power. Here in Nyköping, people still talk about their power struggles (Nyköping’s banquet in 1317).

The ramparts were located in areas where impressive fortifications were built. A defensive tower was erected in the 13th century, which is remarkable! The first castle was constructed here in the 16th century and is part of our rich history. Lars Siggeson Sparre led the construction with great skill!

The Sparre family played a crucial role in the castle’s history. Over several hundred years, they laid the foundation for a grand legacy. The castle developed in beautiful stages. In the 17th century, the Knight’s Hall was created. This part fascinates visitors today with its rich and exciting history of creation.

Beautiful park view at Stora Sundby Castle, featuring a central fountain surrounded by blooming roses and lush greenery.

In the early 19th century, Carl de Geer arrived there as one of Sweden’s richest men. His daughter needed a place to settle down. A castle was planned to be built on top of the fortress. Nonetheless, Carl’s wife, Ulrika Sofia Sprengtporten, had completely different ideas.

According to the guide, Sofia glimpsed hints of enchantment. This occurred while she read Sir Walter Scott’s knight romances. She imagined a world where he lived in a romanticized castle. During the tour, an interesting question arose. This question is seldom mentioned in other sources. Did the same architect create both Stora Sundby Castle and Abbotsford?

Walter Scott’s home (Abbotsford) must have made an impression on Sofia, who stubbornly demanded a castle in the same style. Sure, Frederick Robinson was behind Stora Sundby, but no sources claim that he tailored the design for Abbotsford.

Stora Sundby Castle, a historical gem from the 13th century, featuring stunning architecture and surrounded by lush greenery.

What became of this then? Stora Sundby is a magical calendar castle! With its four majestic towers, it honors the cycles of time. The towers symbolize the four seasons. The twelve small towers represent the months. It also offers 52 rooms and 365 windows, reflecting the richness of weeks and days. The architecture truly captures the essence of the year!

Now to the actual walk! It’s fascinating to think about these gentlemen and ladies. They have lived here, owned properties, and married their great loves. Their love and family stories are a wonderful tapestry of life’s riches to enjoy!

The first stop was the Knights’ Hall, a gem that symbolizes the heart and soul of this magnificent place! Stepping inside feels like traveling back to the 17th century, thanks to the incredible legacy of the Sparre family. The walls are stunningly adorned with leather tapestry paintings that beautifully bring the Battle of Carthage to life. These artworks were crafted during the remarkable de Geer era.

Stora Sundby Castle is surrounded by picturesque greenery. It is set against a dramatic sky. The castle showcases its rich history dating back to the 13th century.

On one side, you can’t miss the striking painting of the first Bernadotte, King Charles XIV Johan. Curious about how a Frenchman became king in Sweden? You’ll uncover that tale on the tour or through a quick Google search! The older paintings now shine in elevated positions, seeming to pay homage to modern masterpieces. The guide shared that the hall’s ceiling was raised. This change allowed for a magnificent ceiling painting in the captivating de Geer style. And up there, the Sparre family’s weapons radiate with pride, a stunning tribute to their enduring legacy!

We walked from one large hall to the other and ended up in the dining room. It wasn’t as spectacular, but there was plenty of charm and elegance. In one corner stands a tiled stove that radiates timeless beauty. The walls are adorned with calfskin wallpaper, and our guide spoke poetically about them. A square for each calf, as if every piece has its own story. Without electricity, the wallpaper would shimmer with a magical glow. A description that captivated us.

The smaller rooms were next, and suddenly an explosive feeling of togetherness emerged, reminiscent of a sitcom family reunion! Fascinating family stories came to light, like a viral family meme. Who married whom? For the first time, I felt like part of something larger, deeply rooted, and amazing. In the red room, I know that some scenes of the series Young Royals were filmed. I can almost hear the tones of dramatic music vibrating in the air. Unexpected twists fill me with anticipation!

The captivating exterior of Stora Sundby Castle, showcasing its unique architectural elements and historical significance.

Only a few rooms were playing hide and seek! Out of the 52 royal chambers in the castle, just a handful showed up for the tour. As we shuffled through, the rooms seemed to shrink. They were as if on a diet. The air got so thin it was practically a phantom! Some clever folks fanned themselves with brochures, giving new meaning to “cooling off.” We got the juicy gossip on the Sparre, de Geer, and Klingspor families, which outshined the worn furniture. I spotted a patchwork auditioning for wall-to-wall carpeting! The final room featured dimly lit 18th-century paintings. An Italian artist painted them. His name slipped my mind—probably due to the ghostly vibes!

Suddenly, we found ourselves back in the courtyard. We were excitedly discussing the possibility of ghosts in the castle. It’s a question that sparks curiosity in everyone! I was eager to discover if there’s a grand library and hidden passages. To my delight, I learned there is indeed a library. It is not large. The details about secret passages are mysterious. This adds to the charm. Looking ahead, the prospect of more parts of the castle opening for tours is thrilling, especially given its fascinating history!

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-07-23
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23 July, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
Theatrical Tours at Ljungs Castle: A Unique Historical Experience
Ljungs Castle in Östergötland transports visitors to the 18th century, where grand halls, kitchens, and secret rooms come alive. Axel von Fersen’s love letters to Marie Antoinette feel as if they’re still being written. It’s a time-travel experience filled with laughter, offering an afternoon where the historic atmosphere returns.

Back in the neighboring county of Östergötland, there is a new attraction: Ljungs Castle. It’s just a 1-hour and 15-minute drive by car. Here is my account of everything I learned during the guided tour. The tour began in front of the castle. The guide provided a history of the castle and shared details about the estate.

The castle was constructed in 1776. It was completed in 1779 at the initiative of Field Marshal and politician Axel von Fersen the Elder. Architect Jean Eric Rehn designed the castle. It is built of stone and brick sourced from nearby quarries. This makes it a locally produced structure. The main building of the castle has three floors. One of the ground-floor rooms houses an exhibition dedicated to Jean Eric Rehn’s interior design.

Recreated kitchen scene at Ljungs Castle, showcasing 18th-century life with costumed actors.

The visit is a so-called theater tour. With a guide in period clothing, we are shown into different rooms. All the members of the ensemble are from Ljungs Slotts Bevarande. On the lower level, there are the kitchen and spaces for the servants.

We stood lined up along one short side. The magnificent kitchen in front of us had a stove, pantry, and china cabinet. We were given a scene from life in the 1700s among kitchen maids and servants.

Complaints were made about the food, and there were jokes about fake rats in the kitchen. One shot, and the medicine was taken. On the lower floor, there is a café and an exhibition about Jean Erik Rehn. Of course, there is a museum shop there as well. The walk continued to the second floor. This was the floor of the nobility. Here resided the owners of the castle, Axel von Fersen the Elder and his family.

Elegant dining room in Ljungs Castle featuring portraits of the Fersen family, showcasing 18th-century architecture and decor.

The play is in the kitchen, and the entrance hall is in Rococo style. The second floor is in pure Gustavian style¹.

We walked straight into the dining room. It was a large hall with dining tables. There was a tiled stove and an open fireplace at each end. Tiled stoves became common during the 17th century. On the walls hang portraits of the members of the Fersen family.

The dining room is located on the northern side of the castle, with windows facing north. This is to keep the room cooler during warm times. Here, a small play also took place before we were shown into the duke’s bedroom.

The duke’s bedroom featuring a canopied bed and tiled stove, reflecting 18th-century design at Ljungs Castle.

Axel von Fersen² was tall and handsome. But the bed was only 1.65 m long. There was a bed canopy. It was meant to protect against cold and drafts, as well as to offer privacy. Even in there, the duke took care of his needs. In the play, the maid entered the room. She took out a bowl from under the bed. This represented his (you understand).

The pot was then taken up to the attic, where it was emptied. All odors wafted upward, far from where the people were. From the bedroom, the journey continued to the most interesting room: the office of Axel von Fersen the Younger³. It was there that he wrote letters to his beloved Marie Antoinette. They wrote to each other with invisible ink. The maid dusted and polished frantically in the office. She pointed out that von Fersen and Marie Antoinette had a secret code language. This secret code language was used in their correspondence.

The elegantly appointed office of Axel von Fersen the Younger, showcasing period decor and a glimpse into 18th-century life.

Today, these letters have been deciphered. One can read about them in Förbindelsen – Marie-Antoinette och Axel von Fersen, which is based on letters and diaries. This book is authored by Kristina Ekero Eriksson. It was here in that Room we also heard the gossip about him and the Queen of France. There was an interesting moment of gossip about Axel von Fersen the Younger. He is also best known for his romance with the Queen of France.

The walk continued into the “fine salons,” as they say, literally into the salon. There, court was held. The gentlemen and ladies swung their shaggy legs, and music was played on the piano nearby.

The elegant interior of a room in Ljungs Castle, showcasing period furniture and artwork.

I do not know what they danced to. But, the music was probably to the tones of baroque music’s sound. It also have been folk music in the spirit of the 18th century. In the next room, the governess lies slumped on the bed. She complains of a headache and nausea.

The maid then serves her a medicinal cure. She offers a glass with a concoction made from a whole array of ingredients. I didn’t manage to note these ingredients. The only thing I remember was a mixture of red and white wine, cinnamon sticks, and something else. It sounds like a rosé version of mulled wine.

The makeup room in Ljungs Castle, showcasing 18th-century decor and furnishings.

In the next room, appearance was everything. A makeup room and a bidet on the floor were completely open for people in the house to see. At that time, one couldn’t be ashamed of cleaning oneself “down there.” Intimacy was almost nonexistent. The guide showcased the cold clothes she wore. She talked about her attire and explained how people dressed back then. It consisted of stockings, wedges, and petticoats, with a nightgown also included beneath everything.

A beauty spot (from the French “mouche⁴,”meaning “fly”) was an important detail in 18th-century fashion. It merged practical needs with aesthetic and symbolic values. We learned this when the guide showed hers on her right cheek.

The exterior of Ljung Church in Östergötland, a historical site linked to the von Fersen family.

At the End

It was there that the fun came to an end. The 1 hour and 10 minutes of guided tour, featuring elements of theater, was over. Dressed-up ladies in period-appropriate 18th-century attire and facts about both the palace and the von Fersen family had now concluded.

Back to the lower level and Rococo-style architecture, I was back in the 21st century. The museum shop and Ljung Church captured our last attention. Most of those from the Fersen family are buried there.

It was a long day in Östergötland County. We took a time travel back to the 18th century. The journey home to Södermanland County became a journey through time.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-07-13
1. Gustavian style is a Swedish take on French neoclassicism from the time of Gustav III (around 1770–1810). It includes light colors, straight lines, and classical elements like urns and ribbons. The furniture is graceful yet simple, typically painted in gray, white, or gray-green, suitable for Nordic light. It embodies ideals of simplicity and harmony and has aristocratic origins. Today, it stands for refined tradition in Swedish interior design. ↩︎
2. Axel von Fersen the Elder (1719–1794) was a Swedish count, military officer, and diplomat. He was the ambassador to France and a member of the Council of State. A key figure in the Hat Party, he supported a pro-French, monarchist policy. This greatly affected Sweden’s domestic and foreign affairs in the 18th century. He was the father of the more well-known Axel von Fersen the Younger. ↩︎
3. Axel von Fersen the Younger (1755 – 1810) was a nobleman and cosmopolitan. After his military training, he traveled across Europe. He mingled with French court circles. He became a close friend of Marie Antoinette. There were rumors suggesting he was her lover. He organized the royal family’s failed escape to Varennes in 1791 during the French Revolution. He served as an officer in both France and America. Later, he was promoted to major general in Sweden. In 1799, he became Marshal of the Realm. His diaries and letters give insights into Swedish politics and the French court life of the late 18th century. Today, he is remembered as a key figure linking Sweden and Europe. He is also recognized as a notable character of the Swedish Gustavian era. ↩︎
4. “Mouche,” was a small piece of black fabric, often shaped like a fly. It was glued onto the face or chest. The purpose was to highlight the white, powdered skin. It also hid imperfections like scars or pimples. Most importantly, it showed that a person belonged to the higher social class that afforded makeup and accessories. ↩︎
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13 July, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
A Day Trip to Vreta Abbey and Cloetta Factory
Through Östergötland between monasteries and chocolate. From Vreta Monastery to Cloetta in Ljungsbro, where Kexchoklad is made. We indulged in temptation and then continued to IKEA in Linköping. A day with contrasts between the sacred and the worldly.

The other day, it was time for a new excursion through the history of culture, art, religion, and entrepreneurship. Not far from here – more precisely, in the neighboring county of Östergötland. There is much to see and explore there. For us, it was an easy journey of about an hour. Filled with anticipation and curiosity, we set off on the road.

Entrance to the Cloetta chocolate factory in Ljungsbro, Sweden, where a variety of sweets are produced.

The main destination of the day was, of course, IKEA in Linköping. We had a somewhat tight budget. Yet, we decided to spend. We set aside 4000 kronor (371 USD) for this purpose. But before that, we wanted to explore some historical gems in the county. Castles and churches adorn the landscape there, just as in our own county.

Östergötland offers a fascinating mix of attractions. There is a golf ball museum. A candy factory¹ (Cloetta) and one of Sweden’s oldest monasteries add to the charm. It is a nunnery dating back to the 12th century. I have been losing weight and training diligently for some time. My goal is to improve my health. So, a stop at the candy factory felt like a temptation I should avoid.

Vreta Abbey, one of Sweden’s oldest monastic sites, showcasing historic architecture from the 12th century.

But fate had other plans – we stopped at the Cloetta chocolate factory anyway, which is also part of Malaco. Here, everything from Swedish Fish to gummy candy and Kexchoklad is produced; it’s an irresistible place for a sweet tooth. We made a brief stop at Vreta Abbey before reaching the factory. This was just before the small town of Ljungsbro, where the chocolate factory is located.

What did we learn about the abbey? Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside, as a funeral was taking place. But we took a peaceful walk around the monastery ruins, where informative signs told their history.

The serene grounds of Vreta Abbey, one of Sweden’s oldest monastic sites, featuring historical ruins and a central cross.

Vreta Abbey is one of Sweden’s oldest monastic sites, with a history dating back to the 12th century. It was Sweden’s first nunnery and belonged to the Cistercian Order. Here, noblewomen were educated at a time when education for women was rare. The abbey was an important spiritual and intellectual center and had strong ties to the Swedish royal family.

Bishop Bengt Birgersson (c. 1254–1291), brother of King Magnus Ladulås, reopened the abbey in 1289 in the king’s presence. Bengt was a typical medieval church prince, where politics and religion went hand in hand. His career illustrates how the monarchy used the church to strengthen its position in the 13th century.

The serene entrance of Vreta Abbey, one of Sweden’s oldest monastic sites, featuring moss-covered pathways and lush greenery.

Gustav Vasa’s Reformation in the 16th century led to the dissolution of monasteries in Sweden. Despite this, Vreta Abbey continued to serve as a residence for the last nuns until the end of the century. An old legend tells of a secret underground passage. It leads from the abbey to Berg’s locks at the Göta Canal. The ruins are said to be haunted. Several visitors have reported strange lights. Shadows move in the darkness.

After our historical visit, it was time for something less ascetic – the Cloetta chocolate factory. We filled a large bag with various sweets and left the store with a mix of joy and guilt. But we consoled ourselves with the thought that something even more enjoyable awaited – an ending at IKEA, of course.

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-03-02
1. Cloetta https://www.cloetta.com/en ↩︎
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2 March, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟓 Exploring Madeira: A Journey Through Nature and Culture – Day 5
On track through water

From exploring the island on four wheels, bouncing around in a jeep, it was on foot that mattered this day. Newly acquired hiking shoes and a journey ahead on our own two feet would be a day of relief.

Heavy clouds loomed over us. Despite the weather gods working against us, we would still defy the weather. We played our way along the water-filled paths at Parque Florestal das Queimadas, Madeira Natural Park, Santana.

Traditional Madeiran house nestled in lush greenery, showcasing local architecture amidst a cloudy backdrop in Parque Florestal das Queimadas.

Along waterfalls and steep cliffs, we walked in a group with others and a guide who was constantly braking. What was there to say about everything, really?

You had to get ahead on your own. Be careful not to hit your head on branches and hold on tightly to the railing. Where there was a railing, so to speak.

Brand new shoes with a water guarantee and marked with Gore-Tex, I could feel safe. During the entire hike, which was 11 km, no water got into my shoes.

A stunning waterfall cascading through lush greenery in Madeira’s Parque Florestal das Queimadas.

My socks were dry at the rest area. I took a little time to recover. I also checked everything in my golf watch. Now, it’s time to continue hiking. This time, a much shorter distance—only 3 km. The earlier one was measured at 8 km.

Stunning cliffs overlooking the ocean at Madeira’s Parque Florestal das Queimadas, perfect for hiking and exploration.

That was the only adventurous thing that happened that day. We knew that it would be even more demanding the next day. A new hike, a new place, and new opportunities. No guide, and only according to our own needs. More about that in the next blog post. Guess where?

The clue is in the picture below?

Summary

The day’s adventure shifted from exploring by jeep to hiking on foot in Madeira’s Parque Florestal das Queimadas. Despite looming clouds, the trek continued along waterfalls and steep cliffs with a guide and a group. Navigating wet paths, avoiding low branches, and relying on Gore-Tex shoes kept the hiker dry and comfortable. The total hike covered 11 km, followed by a shorter 3 km stretch. With a Garmin watch tracking progress, the day ended with anticipation for an even more challenging hike the next day.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2025-01-29
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29 January, 2025

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟒 Exploring Madeira: A Journey Through Nature and Culture – Day 4
On the roads

The adventure was booked and ready. We quickly transitioned into Day 4, igniting a sense of anticipation that buzzed in the air like electricity. On Day 3, we thoroughly explored Funchal to recharge and prepare for the excitement ahead. We wandered the streets, squares and visited local markets. At the hotel’s driveway, we eagerly awaited the colorful jeep that would take us across the island.

Six enthusiastic participants and a driver, who was even more enthusiastic, got into the vehicle. We were ready to start an adventure. One charismatic individual was our guide, driver, and tour guide all at once. This provided a unique perspective that made the experience even more special. The multi-talented host knew everything about the island. He also shared tales of the area’s history and culture.

Colorful 4×4 jeep vehicles from Green Devil waiting to take adventurers across Madeira.

Two of the party rubbed their bottoms against hard benches on the jeep’s flatbed benches. Still, no one complained; the excitement of the adventure outweighed any discomfort we felt. It wasn’t just water around the island and its shores. It was a living fabric of nature. We visited and swept past these shores. We saw waterfall after waterfall, each cascading with an ethereal grace that made it hard to believe it was real.

That day it is windy. At places where you can normally swim, we were advised not to take a dip. There was possibility at a well enclosed bay where the strong wind did not reach. It was cold, but a dip up to the knees was much needed.

Fog envelops the mystical landscape of Fanal Forest, featuring ancient trees that create an enchanting atmosphere.

The asphalt ran out. Gravel roads and steep hills took over. We knew we were close to Fanal Forest (Fanal Witch Tree). Once there, the fog was so dense that visibility was short. The Jeep handled the steep hills gallantly. Whether it would handle hard bumps in potholes was more uncertain, but it did. All sharp boulders stood no chance against the jeep’s tires. The tires held, after all.

On foot

Thank goodness we got to stretch our legs several times. Imagine sitting there on the hard bench. We would have been in the back of the car from early morning to late afternoon. But it wasn’t like that.

We stopped several times. These stops brought blood back to our feet. They also provided warmth in our legs and a hot drink in our stomachs (coffee). What was the view if you didn’t stand and look at it out of the car?

A stunning coastal view showcasing rugged rock formations and powerful waves crashing against the shore.

We made a stop at a cafe. Then we went to a restaurant for food. After that, we visited the place we had been looking ahead to: Fanal Forest. The fog was dense, with cows and bulls grazing and people searching for where they were going.

A wedding photographer captured a bride and groom in the fog. It was difficult to avoid being in the middle of the shot. The mist caressed the camera lens as we strode along the trees to find where we were going.

Mystical view of Fanal Forest shrouded in fog, capturing the serene beauty of nature.

The fog was there, and the cows were mooing in a landscape. It seemed to come from a painting by Caspar David Friedrich.¹ This experience was magical. For 20 minutes, we enjoyed the quietness and the fog. We had the opportunity to daydream about the world of art and fantasy.

The next stop was in the sign of water. In a place where you can swim in better weather, we walked down a long staircase. The waterfalls along the way were seen, studied, and photographed on foot. A long day on almost impassable roads ended late in the afternoon. We also walked in misty mountains and beautiful coastal gems. The same way we came, the same way we left.

Summary

The adventure through Madeira blended excitement, natural beauty, and moments of serene magic. The journey extended from exploring Funchal to navigating rugged roads. We traveled through misty mountains in Porto Moniz — Madeira Natural Park. The journey was filled with breathtaking sights, cascading waterfalls, and immersive experiences. The cold winds and bumpy roads presented challenges. Yet, the day was unforgettable. It offered a harmonious mix of exploration, tranquility, and anticipation for new adventures ahead.

⬅️ Tomorrow is a day too, filled with endless possibilities and opportunities for exploration. A new adventure awaits. New expeditions follow in the footsteps of the hiker. The hiker (me) is ready to uncover hidden trails and breathtaking landscapes. We will feel the wild spirit of nature surrounding us. With every step (on wet, muddy hiking trails), we’ll create memories that linger long after our journey ends. See you then, as we prepare to embrace the call of the wild together.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-11-28
1. Caspar David Friedrich (1774–1840) was a German Romantic painter famous for his landscapes that show nature’s beauty and depth. Iconic paintings are Wanderer above the Sea of Fog (1818) and The Abbey in the Oakwood (1809-10). He established his legacy as a landscape painting master. ↩︎
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28 November, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟐 Exploring Madeira: A Journey Through Nature and Culture – Day 2
An early morning dawns, but not too late. I know they’re waiting for us, all these flowers. The gray weather shall be deafened by all its colors. The plants have become our shelter from the rain.

Tranquil view of the hotel pool area surrounded by lush greenery on a cloudy day.

New day on an island, far out in the Atlantic Ocean. The hotel breakfast was approved. The hotel was full of people in their upper middle age and older. We had chosen the hotel for the best possible peace. The hotel was child-free. It was full of English and Nordic guests.

Every night, there was live music in the hotel bar. The performances ranged from classic rock and pop to Spanish tunes. Troubadours of all genres entertained us. It was close to the beach and located in the middle of the old part of the city, very near to the cable car station, so…

Stunning views of the Madeira Botanical Garden, showcasing vibrant plant arrangements and the scenic backdrop of Funchal.

…is there one way up, or two? There are roads, of course, as steep as the depth of admiration for the island’s fantastic nature. The above-ground route did not attract us. Fear of heights and mixed thoughts took us up along the mountain in a bus. A bus as wide as the roads and constantly facing oncoming traffic. Who goes first? The biggest goes first was the mantra along the narrow and steep uphills. Finally, we arrived at what was the first destination of the day: Madeira Botanical Garden.

The Madeira Botanical Garden¹ was proposed as early as the 17th century and opened in 1960. It spans about eight hectares, with five hectares dedicated to landscaped areas featuring various trees and ornamental shrubs. You can explore sections with orchids, lawns, and scenic viewpoints over Madeira’s capital, along with an amphitheater.

A cable car ascends towards Jardim Monte Palace, showcasing the stunning views of Madeira.

The garden is home to over 2,000 exotic plants from around the world. To tackle global biodiversity loss, it includes a research and conservation area focused on preserving these species.

In the end, we both arrived at the heights I didn’t want to look down from. Every downward glance became a squint. Narrow paths took us around the gigantic garden. Plants and flowers in all their shapes and colors were waiting for the rain. However, we didn’t, but we knew it would come, sooner or later.

A winding path among diverse cacti and succulents in the Madeira Botanical Garden, showcasing unique flora against a gray sky.

Gray clouds and narrow paths circled around. We hiked, took photos, and sought shelter from the rain that fell. The path circled like the cutting of the bushes in the main image of the post. Slim but still with all plants. Carefully, we moved between fountains and swimming turtles. We encountered terrifying cacti with thorns as long as my fingers. I hid my fingers in my pockets.

The rain fell as we prepared for the next destination. It would take us even further upwards. Vertigo would be on the agenda. First, a bite to eat, a little to drink 🥤, and getting caught in the tourist trap. A golf shirt, of course. A hobby golfer like me can proudly play a round of golf here at home. I can wear a shirt that says Madeira Golf on it.

A stunning red pavilion at Monte Palace Madeira Garden surrounded by lush greenery.

For further travel upwards, it was, of course, the cable car that applied. Pretty much the whole time on the way up to Jardim Monte Palace, I closed my eyes. My heart was in the pit of my throat. I kept thinking that the cart would break loose and fall into the depths of the mountain valley.

The Monte Palace Madeira Garden has a prime hilltop location. It offers panoramic views over Funchal’s bay. This garden is one of the most unique places on the island of Madeira. It is marked by its exotic flora and the art that surrounds it.

A vibrant walkway lined with colorful flowers at Jardim Monte Palace, offering a picturesque view.

The history of Jardim Monte Palace² dates back to the 18th century. Charles Murray, an English consul, bought the property south of Monte Church. In 1897, Alfredo Guilherme Rodrigues purchased it and built a grand residence, which later became the ‘Monte Palace Hotel.’

The Monte Palace Madeira Garden now showcases about 100,000 plant species from around the world. This includes ancient cycads, known as living fossils. There are several Buddhist sculptures and lanterns. There is also an impressive collection of tiles from the 15th to 20th centuries. The garden is home to diverse wildlife, including swans, peacocks, and Asian koi fish.

Historical art and photographs are vibrantly displayed along the pathways of Jardim Monte Palace. This adds depth to the garden’s serene beauty.

What else could we expect? To my delight, I got to take part in art and photographs. Along the paths that surround the giant garden, we could see images and motifs with a historical connection. Many of them were both restored and copies of motifs from the 16th century.

With a Pina Colada in hand and tired legs, we watch a group of pelicans resting, standing on one leg. I have two and have a hard time getting them to carry me. We have hiked, ridden the cable car, and hiked some more. The 1,000-year-old olive tree at the entrance to the last stop is the last thing we admire.

Flamingos standing gracefully in a lush garden setting, vibrant greenery and a decorative backdrop enhance their beauty.

A long day among plants, high up in the mountains, was over. The way back was as scary as the way up. The closer we got to the station, the more I could breathe out. The carriage remained hanging. My fear disappeared with the deep sigh I gave as we stepped out of the cable car.

Back to the hotel (Porto Santa Maria)³. Recharge our batteries and ourselves and a glass of the island’s namesake. 🍷 Relaxing in preparation for the next adventure – a jeep safari in the mountains…

💬 See you not tomorrow, the day after tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-10-30
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30 October, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟏 Exploring Madeira: A Journey Through Nature and Culture – Day 1
The cold lingers like the afterword in a film when the Swedish winter enters its second phase. It is the end of February, and the cold feels like the freezer in the kitchen.

View of the bustling harbor in Funchal, Madeira. It features a variety of boats. A large cruise ship basks under a clear blue sky.

At Arlanda Airport, winter clothes should be put away, and more lightly dressed adventurers should head to warmer regions. Time passed quickly, and we almost missed the plane. There was a lot to check out in the duty-free shop at the airport. But we managed. With breaths caught in our throats and drops of sweat on our foreheads, we sat there on the plane, anyway. If we had missed the plane, it would have been a disaster. From now on, we must always be on time. You don’t make the same mistake twice, do you? Or…?

We exchanged the Swedish winter for warmth and a snow-free landscape. Not at all unusual when you live in the cold north. This time, we have chosen to focus on nature experiences, wilderness, and adventure instead of art. Hiking among mountains, forests, and gardens, as well as Madeira’s food culture, has become our priority. A new pair of hiking boots was purchased for all of the week’s adventures. Of course, we had clothes and equipment for long hikes in the mountains, gardens, and forests with us.

The flight was long in contrast to the distance to the seat in front. There were closely placed airplane seats with short legroom. My knees scraped against the backrest in front of me. It ached in all parts of my knees and down to my feet.

An Airbus A319 received landing clearance five hours later on one of the world’s shortest runways. The landing was as calm as a dip in the pool and a quick taxi ride to Funchal. Once at the hotel, we had to recharge both our own batteries and those in our iPhones.

A serene view of the Atlantic Ocean near Madeira, showcasing calm waters and a distant lighthouse.

The small island group far out in the Atlantic Ocean still has great opportunities for a rich life of adventure. The longing for everything was like a dog’s drool along the corners of our mouths. The island attracts those who thirst for wilderness and natural experiences, but also those who just want to enjoy it. 🍷

Madeira is an island group in the Atlantic Ocean, 400 kilometers north of the Canary Islands. It belongs to Portugal but is politically self-governing. It consists of the main island of Madeira, the island of Porto Santo, as well as some uninhabited islands.

Statue of Cristiano Ronaldo in Funchal, Madeira, celebrating the island’s connection to the famous soccer player.

The capital is Funchal. In the harbor stands one of the world’s best soccer players, but only in muscles and clothes of bronze. Madeira-born Cristiano Ronaldo is in all his glory, but the protagonist of this journey is once again a soon-to-be 50-year-old. Besides him, there are, of course, boats of all sizes. Sailboats and giant cruise ships mingle with a replica of Christopher Columbus‘ flagship, the carrack Santa Maria. It was with this ship that he accidentally reached America in 1492. A new continent was discovered, but we know that the Vikings landed there 500 years before him. For those who are keen, you can travel around the bay with her.

A replica of Christopher Columbus’s flagship, the Santa Maria, docked in Funchal, Madeira, showcasing the island’s rich maritime history.

The distance from the hotel to the beach was as short as Ronaldo’s free kicks. After fully charged batteries and with a dribble signed by Ronaldo, our bellies were empty, but expectations were high. On the first day, it was, of course, the first attempt to taste Madeira’s local specialties. With the smell of the sea and the aroma of fish restaurants, we filled our hungry bellies.

A serene view of the ocean from the hotel balcony in Madeira, showcasing palm trees and a relaxing beach atmosphere.

After that, the ground will be trampled, nature experienced, and mountains climbed. Tomorrow, plants will meet us with their beauty. The Madeira Botanical Garden and Jardim Monte Palace, high up in the mountains, will welcome us with their charm.

💬 See you tomorrow

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-10-17
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17 October, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟳 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Sculptures’ and Monuments’ Day
Last day of the week in the city of love made an entrance. It is a day that, to a large extent, goes in the form and sign of the hard material. The sun casts a warm glow over the cobblestone streets. The bustling energy of the city takes on a new rhythm.

Everything from sculptures and architectural monuments to a slightly lighter adventure awaited us as we stepped into the museum. The haunting stillness of Auguste Rodin’s monuments surrounded us. Their pale, imposing figures seemed to come to life in the dim light.

A stylized painting of Rodin’s sculpture ‘The Thinker’ is surrounded by green trees. It captures a moment of reflection in a serene setting.

As we made our way through the museum, we felt a profound connection to the artist. His timeless masterpieces captivated us. For a moment, it felt as if we were stepping into a slightly lighter adventure. This journey beautifully intertwined history, art, and the boundless potential of human creativity.

Cogito, ergo sum. The thinker in his own form stands in the middle of the garden where many of Rodin’s creations stand. As the thinker contemplates existence, the sculptures around him seem to come to life. Each sculpture tells its own story through the frozen movement captured by Rodin’s skilled hands.

In the house where the museum is housed, I was surprised by the works of other artists exhibited there. Some van Gogh and works from Munch, of course. As I wandered through the halls, I also came across breathtaking pieces by Monet, Renoir, and Picasso.

A vibrant portrait of Vincent van Gogh surrounded by colorful backgrounds showcasing his artistic influences, displayed at the museum.

I was pleasantly surprised and overwhelmed with joy when I stepped into the museum. I laid my eyes on the exquisite paintings by the renowned artists Van Gogh and Munch. There were also works by other artists.

A lunch among all the stiff figures would give us more energy. It would be as if we ourselves stepped out of our marble costume we put on during the week. Taking the time to enjoy a leisurely meal with colleagues can offer a needed break from the daily grind. It allows for lively conversations. It provides the opportunity to recharge our mental batteries.

A short visit to the Place de la Concorde with neither blood spatter nor trace of royalty. We continued to the Arc de Triumph in the center of the Champs-Élysées. The Place de la Concorde stands as a symbol of French history. Its impressive Egyptian obelisk and ornate fountains epitomize grandeur.

The modern architecture of La Défense, showcasing the Grande Arche against a backdrop of dramatic clouds.

As we strolled through the square, echoes of the past reverberated through the air. They reminded us of the historical events that have taken place on this hallowed ground.

We walked around it and under it. We marveled at the intricate details of the architecture. The sunlight played beautifully with the shadows.

A little later, we ended up at La Défense, the modern business district with its towering skyscrapers and bustling streets. It was a gigantic contrast to everything we experienced during the week.

From history, to more modern history and now, perhaps the most modern part of the city. Modern architecture and tall buildings, far from brick, marble, and concrete. The skyline of this bustling city is now dominated by sleek glass skyscrapers. Each skyscraper is a testament to human ingenuity. These buildings represent technological advancement.

The historical wing beats seemed to have flown away. They left behind a serene atmosphere. This atmosphere whispered tales of the past. The ancient walls echoed with the memories of generations long gone. The place’s energy felt vibrant and alive.

The people we met there were anything but historical. Young people, who have a future ahead of them, filled the air with excitement. Their ambition painted a vivid contrast against the backdrop of antiquity.

All the places, all the historical visits, and the hunt for French cuisine were now over. Tomorrow the flight goes home, and everything points to the fact that I will come back to Paris. I am convinced of that — but when, that is a mystery?

The next time we meet here on the blog, I will have moved to a small Portuguese island. It is far out in the Atlantic. The island is known for its stunning cliffs, picturesque beaches, and rich maritime history.

From traditional seafood dishes to colorful festivals, there is so much to discover and experience on this beautiful island. I can’t wait to share my adventures with you in the upcoming blog posts.

The next trip and adventure will be in February 2024, spending a week in Madeira. There will be a report about this on the blog later. The theme will be focused on plants and nature, including mountain safaris and hikes in forests and mountains. We explored the beautiful landscapes of Madeira and visited botanical gardens.

…to be continued

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-08-29
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29 August, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟔 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Contemporary Art’s Day
Finally, another museum visit, close to the hotel and conveniently scheduled during our stay. The 20th-century art lines the walls of the Center Pompidou¹, showcasing everything I like.

The classic facade was in front of us. The red parts were on the long escalator. The queue below was all the shorter. Just a fraction of the one we stood in at the Louvre.

Maybe it was something else that attracted, what do I know? Short queues and a reasonable ticket price and large areas for fewer visitors were a big advantage during the visit.

My excitement went from my chest to my pupils the closer we got to the exhibit. The large entrance hall with shops on either side was what I so eagerly expected. Books at one and souvenirs at the other. Let the adventure begin.

It was the master of contemporary art I was looking for. Kahlo, Mondrian, Miró, Kandinsky, and others. Everyone was there, so to speak. Even Picasso, Warhol, and Jackson Pollock had found their way there.

I could next feel myself floating along the room, as if floating on clouds. Everyone was there. The ones I wanted to see and meet.

It was as if I walked in there with one of my favorite books from university in my hand. I could almost feel a weight in my arms from the heavy book. H.H. Arnason – History of Modern Art (Fifth edition 2003)

I myself floated forward, upright, not upside down like New York City², I guess. If not this one too, has been hanging upside down for years. That in view of the discovery that New York City I (1941) has been hanging upside down for years.

More and more of the masters of contemporary art lined up like a panorama in front of me. It was she I was looking for, exactly her.

Like a ferret in search of food, I searched for what made my day. The Mexican contemporary art queen was there. With her back to the wall and a determined gaze, she stares at us with her thick, interlocking eyebrows. (The Frame 1938)³.

Frida Kahlo’s vibrant portrait, surrounded by colorful floral motifs, displayed at the Centre Pompidou.

The hunt for the masters continued. The adventure in the jungle of contemporary art was not over. This was despite finding what I was looking for. My gut feeling sailed on the ocean of art science. It navigated us onward. There were plenty of goodies in the gigantic museum.

From nowhere along the corridor’s long wall, hang artworks by Picasso, Pollock, and Warhol. Everyone wants to be seen. The tired visitor mostly wants to find the elevator down to the entrance. But not me.

Picasso’s provocative painting ‘La Pisseuse’ (1965), featuring a seated figure against a vibrant blue background.

I wanted more, I didn’t want it to end. I knew Marie was waiting for us. She wanted to be freed before being taken away to the Place de la Concorde. We know from history what happened there during the French Revolution (1789-1799).

After a quick look at Pollock’s abstract lines and Warhol’s classic celebrity faces, we noticed more eroticism. This time it was from Picasso (La Pisseuse 1965)⁴. Afterward, we would visit Marie Antoinette at the Palais de Justice.

Maybe it would be like coming back to where we started the journey. Marie Antoinette existed as a royal apparition at Versailles and later this day as an imprisoned one.

It was with sadness that I left the Centre Pompidou and immediately wanted to return. I’m going there again, that’s for sure. The gallery I would like to work at – but my French isn’t that good 😉

In summary, it was a street race through its large exhibition halls. I got to see many of my favorite artists’ creations. I saw works by Frida Kahlo, Piet Mondrian, as well as Jackson Pollock and Joan Miró.

The mobile camera drained the battery. Ideally, I wanted to go there again the next day. I didn’t buy anything in the souvenir shop. Well, nothing actually.

The next day, more of what stands out, or rather up in the sky in different formats, materials, and shapes.

©️ Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-30
1. National museum of contemporary art, located in the 4th arrondissement of Paris. The museum opened in 1977 on the initiative of French President Georges Pompidou. Art from the 20th century onwards is displayed here. In addition to the permanent exhibition, a number of temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art are offered. ↩︎
2. oil-on-canvas painting by Piet Mondrian, completed in 1942 ↩︎
3. The Frame Kahlo’s self-portrait in oil on a sheet of aluminum framed in glass which she purchased from a market in Oaxaca, Mexico 1938 ↩︎
4. Oil-on-canvas painting by Pablo Picasso – april 1965 ↩︎
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30 June, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
Exploring Julita Manor: An Immersive Historical Experience
Julita Manor dates back to the 12th century and reflects Swedish cultural history. Its past includes medieval monasteries and 20th-century manor life. Guided tours reveal its secrets and tell stories from Arthur Bäckström’s era, covering salons, workshops, and the church. These tales help explain the interaction between history, people, and the environment in this cultural heritage.

The wind was blowing from the west. The waves at Öljaren were as high as my expectations for a full day trip to Julita manor. The place where the manor is now located dates back to the end of the 12th century.

It is an important historical place in the county where we live. It is just a 1 hour and 20-minute drive away, too close to miss. Julita Manor is now part of the Nordiska Museet, where it was donated by its last owner, Lieutenant Arthur Bäckström.

The beautiful exterior of Julita Manor, showcasing its 18th-century classicist architecture surrounded by well-manicured gardens.

I will reproduce everything here as best I can. It includes what my eyes and ears caught during and after the guided tour and stored in my memory.

The house, known as the big house, is significantly younger than the area. The main building was constructed in the 17th century but burnt down in the mid-18th century. A new house in the classicist style was built on the site sometime in the 18th century.

Arthur Bäckström’s parents bought the manor at auction in 1892 after the Palbitzki family. The house was completely empty at the time of purchase. The Bäckström family put their own stamp on the house. They customized its exterior and associated buildings. They also personalized everything I got to see inside the house.

The house has been owned by Arthur Bäckström since 1902, when he inherited it from his father, Johan Bäckström. He leased the farm until his death in 1941.

A picturesque view of Julita Manor, showcasing its historic architecture against a vibrant blue sky and lush greenery.

The tour guide was able to explain a lot to me, just to me, in an engaging way. Dressed in period clothing, the guide started the performance. A coachman’s residence was one of the buildings added during Arthur’s time on the farm. A stable was also added. In addition, a carriage wing was constructed.

We did the guided tour in shifts. We had our dog with us, which is okay in the area. You just need to keep the dog on a leash.

Speaking of dogs, it was dogs that were dear to Arthur Bäckström’s heart. They were his children. Since he didn’t have any kids of his own, the dogs were part of his family. It is also said that the dogs are buried where he himself is buried.

Inscription stone from Julita Manor referencing historical events.

At the end of the 12th century, specifically in 1180, I learned that King Knut Eriksson donated the farm Säby. This farm corresponded to most of Julita parish. It was given to the Cistercian order. A monastery was built where the manor stands today.

The monks built vaults where the south wing now stands. You can go down under it and look to see what the vault, which the monks built, looks like. Even the dog was welcome down. In the wing, there is a large kitchen for cooking for everyone in the mansion. There was another kitchen in the north wing. It was used to cook food for guests and passers-by. It also served as a soup kitchen for vagrants who often came by.

During one and the same year in Arthur’s time. If I remember correctly, the guide said there were 1600 hobo visits in a year, which is documented. It makes me think that maybe Arthur cared about everyone. He wanted to help the poor and hungry. He also wanted to make sure everyone who worked on the estate was fine.

The interior of a historic room at Julita Manor. It showcases remnants of medieval architecture. The room features arched ceilings and rustic stone walls.

Lake Öljaren is to the west. The manor house is to the east. There is one thing to remember, but I’ll get to that a little later 🧭.

As we know from history, it was the Reformation in the 16th century under the rule of king Gustav Vasa. All the monasteries were looted and disappeared, and Sweden became Lutheran. Julita then became a royal farm.

I already knew that Gustav Vasa died in 1560. I have worked at the county museum. I lectured about him and his children. I mainly focused on his youngest son, Duke Karl (later King Karl IX). However, I was unaware that Gustav Vasa stayed at Julita for two weeks due to illness just before his death. The guide said that the king had a retinue with him and that included 200 horses. Horses that would last two weeks on the estate.

Historic carriages preserved inside the stable at Julita Manor, reflecting transportation from the past.

If the illness that the king contracted during his journey would cause his death, the guide could not answer. The guide showed a detailed description of who owned the farm first. The guide did this by pointing to the portrait paintings hanging on the hall wall of the house. I have now forgotten who they were.

The first floor of the house was Arthur’s private floor. The well-read and committed guide talked about how important his dogs were. He loved to drink rhubarb juice in the morning when he woke up. He pointed to the pitcher on a small table next to Arthur’s bed. Perhaps it was a bit of curiosity from the viewing. Or maybe it was because I asked a lot. I was as interested as the guide himself.

Portrait of Arthur Bäckström, the last owner of Julita Manor, painted by Bernhard Östergren in 1935.

Arthur’s own breakfast room is at one end, and his private bedroom is at the other. Imagine if you had that for yourself. In between, there is a room where he and other higher dignitaries sat. They smoked and played cards. They probably also discussed business and politics. Opposite is a room that serves as a study, with a desk and associated accessories.

It is the common area that meets us on the next floor: the lounge and dining room. A room with porcelain from Rörstrand and shelves filled with glass, glass with Arthur’s seal on it. My question was, of course, if the glasses come from Rejmyre glass factory, perhaps. The glass factory is not too far from here and was founded in 1810. The guide could not answer that question, so others will have to find out. On the website there may be answers or not?

In the room with all the crockery, there is a food elevator. The food came from the warming room below. There, the cooked food was transported from the kitchen in the south wing. In the so-called Julita room, there is a large painting of Julita piecework. The guide told us that leather cannons were made there. Making the cannons easier to move on the battlefield seemed to be the intent. However, it turned out to be a fiasco. The gunpowder mixture was not always correct, and so the cannon blew up and fell apart.

An intricately designed piece of furniture featuring detailed carvings and many drawers, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.

The painting on the wall is a copy, the guide said. The original can be found at the National Museum in Amsterdam. I was there myself, in the spring of 2023. I certainly saw the original. I did not reflect on it at the time.

On the top floor, there is a library, guest rooms, and a large drawing room. I found out the professor and his wife were staying as guests. They were in one of the guest rooms in the northern part of the salon. The large library of over 5000 volumes, I imagine, satisfied the professor on his visit.

Large trunks lined the entrance to the guest rooms. They were a sign that someone traveled far. The traveler intended to stay there for a long time.

It wasn’t just visitors, tramps, and long-distance guests who enjoyed Artur’s company. Even the employees are said to enjoy it there. Most of the 150 employees lived in the area. A large part of them were crofters and lived in the 80 crofts on the manor.

One who was mentioned often and many times was the farm carpenter Forsman. Henning Forsman was his full name. I was told that the majority of the furniture in the mansion was made by him. In his carpentry workshop, which is located on the outskirts, there was no electricity. Everything was done by hand and with mechanical machines.

A scenic view of traditional Swedish red cottages with grassy roofs, located near the historical Julita Manor.

There was electricity in the manor house. The guide enthusiastically pointed out the lamps in the ceiling. They did not have lampshades. This was to show that they had electric light in the house.

Forsman’s mission was to manufacture furniture for the nobility in various historical styles. Most of the furniture in the house is made by him. The guide showed me chairs in the Empire style, and sure enough, I could see it. As an art historian, I immediately recognize the style. It includes traditional lion’s paws. There are also tassels as decoration, mainly on the chair legs.

I was able to leave the mansion behind me after an hour of guiding. The gigantic garden was in front of me. At the end of it, a gazebo, which, according to the guide, is a replica. The original can be found at Skansen.

Many impressions and a lot in my historical backpack, we continued to explore the area. Orangery, museum, and a church are just a few buildings to visit. There is more, and a café of course. The coffee was almost more expensive than the entrance fee, but the nice café staff was a big plus. Water for the dog and coffee for us.

Interior view of Julita Manor, showcasing traditional wooden architecture and historical artifacts.

Adjacent to the church, there is a Julita Skans folk museum. There, Arthur Bäckström displayed items from his private collection. Today, when I came in, there was also a smaller art exhibition. “Finally,” I thought. “There is a bit of modern art. I found it when I got up to the exhibition, which is upstairs in the museum’s entrance.”

A wooden bell tower designed according to Arthur Bäckström’s ideas is located near Julita Manor. It showcases intricate architecture against a clear blue sky.

It is an ongoing exhibition of works from local artists. They operate in Katrineholm municipality – which includes Julita manor. The exhibition is organized by the non-profit association KIKK (Konstnärer i Katrineholms Kommun). There were some works I liked. Mainly the abstract works with strong colors.

The museum building is connected to the church on the farm. There is a small courtyard serving as a link between them. The church gate, as is the case in most instances, is in the west. That’s what I intended to convey, as I mentioned earlier, the matter concerning the weather lines.

Interior view of the chapel at Julita Manor, showcasing wooden benches and a decorative ceiling.

The big house is to the east, as is the church’s altar. It is a walk from the gate in the west, from Öljaren’s location in relation to the farm. Traditionally, churches have always been built so that the altar is in the east and the entrance in the west. The congregation must therefore look towards the east. This is the direction which is the origin of light. It is where the sun rises.

The church then? Or rather a chapel. Built in wood according to Arthur’s own ideas. Wooden benches and an altar at the front in the east. A seemingly small religious building with a free-standing bell tower – a so-called campanile.

The day trip continued. We visited the orangery and the nearby brickworks. Some flowers were bought before there was a short visit inside the museum shop.

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-22
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22 June, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟱 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Montmartre’s Day
A new day in a new part of the city. We crossed to the other side of the river. We gained a new perspective on a new hotel. We set off on an exploration of the boulevards of the 9th arrondissement. Without the key to the lock, we headed for new heights.

A collection of love locks attached to a railing, symbolizing promises and memories in the vibrant cityscape of Montmartre.

Expectations were, of course, high, but we had to wait a while. It was Amelie’s place that had to push us out of the hotel room. Mile after mile, we have walked, and there would be many more to walk. Out of bed and up the slopes, our next destination was Moulin Rouge¹.

Light steps, filled with expectations, we made our way up the slopes. Hundreds of tourists and hundreds of smartphones in the air caught the view with the classic facade. The red windmill and its surroundings, didn’t disappoint us.

Panoramic view of Paris from a viewpoint, featuring the skyline and the Tour Maine-Montparnasse in the distance.

Of course, it didn’t end there. More to see, more to discover. Along the narrow streets, artists sat with their easels. They were around the closely spaced cafes. The artists at Place du Tertre² waited for the object.

Some wanted to be painted, and some could smell the food from nearby restaurants. We didn’t find Amelie³ either, but we didn’t expect that. She probably had other things to do that day ;)With new information and discoveries, we continued to move upwards. Nothing without the lock, as the key to where we were going.

Along the railings on the grand staircase at the great cathedral, everything goes into a lock. The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre stands behind us as a silhouette. We move our eyes along the view of the city. High up, we stand, and on the horizon, the 210-metre (689 ft) Tour Maine-Montparnasse rises high from the landscape.

Perhaps we stood at the highest point of the 18th arrondissement. We looked at the road, searching for traces of where we had just walked. That was how we got to this place. But that was just a parenthesis in the whole thing.

There was not much left to see and discover that day. Back in the 9th arrondissement, we walked along boulevards. After enjoying a late dinner at a standard restaurant, we landed on the hotel balcony. We caught the night lights of the city.

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-06-16
1. Moulin Rouge is an entertainment establishment at Place Blanche in Montmartre in Paris ↩︎
2. A square in the 18th arrondissement, a few streets away from Basilica of the Sacré Cœur. From the end of the 18th century until World War One, the whole Montmartre Boheme could be seen here: painters, songwriters and poets. ↩︎
3. Refers to the classic film Amelie from Montmartre (Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain) – 2001 ↩︎
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16 June, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟰 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Mona Lisa’s Day
La Joconde was still waiting for me to visit her. Me and thousands of other people too. Sadly, I couldn’t visit her until later in the day. I was like a child on Christmas Eve, waiting for Santa Claus. My time will come, that say.

Earlier that day, we explored the city a bit more. An excursion with new eyes after hunting for new glasses. At the 3rd arrondissement, we found what we were looking for. New frames, not for me but…

…suddenly they added color to everyday life. Color on streets along the end of the rainbow. The treasure was there somewhere. The holy grail perhaps? 😉

With new spectacle frames procured, I prepared for my date with La Gioconda and others in the Louvre¹. My expectations were like a fragrant cloud in my art historical mind. The colors of the rainbow were vivid in my memory. A line stretched outside the pyramid’s entrance, as long as the Great Wall of China.

The iconic Mona Lisa, captured within the Louvre’s walls, showcases her enigmatic smile.

I could almost smell the 400-year-old tempera. Without a map or compass, we still knew where to go first. With brisk steps along the picture-covered walls of the labyrinth we barely made it through.

My date with Mona Lisa² had begun. But not just for me. Hundreds of other people dated her. Her mysterious smile kept us at bay. Imprisoned behind tempered glass and guards everywhere – she hadn’t time for a chat.

One step forward, one back and some steps to the side. Same procedure for a while. Hands in the air and flashes everywhere. I needed a stair. Poetic lines, yes it is, but ten minutes later, the visit continued.

In room after room, painting after painting, and I could look at some of my favorite artist’s paintings. Masterpieces by: Leonardo, David, Caravaggio, Gentileschi, Titian, Rafael and many more.

Like a Formula 1 race through the history. I raced around sarcophaguses, sphinxes, Egyptian sculptures and ancient objects, everywhere. The time was running out. We reached the finish line just after the white lady in marble (Venus of Milo³) said to us, “welcome back”.

– Yes of course, I’ll be back, soon. One day wasn’t enough. We needed more time! The 4th day in the city of love culminated in a date with Mona Lisa. It ended in the Carousel Garden. The next day had more to offer. I promise!

…to be continued

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-04-29
1. The largest national museum in France. Founded in 1793 and located in the 1st arrondissement of Paris. ↩︎
2. Mona Lisa (1503 – oil on panel) is the Renaissance artist Leonardo da Vinci’s most famous portrait of, according to tradition, the Florentine Lisa Gherardini, above all known for her mysterious smile. Louvre (since 1797). ↩︎
3. An ancient Greek marble sculpture that was created during the Hellenistic period. Between 160 and 110 BC. ↩︎
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29 April, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟯 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Impressions Day
Fifty years plus one day – An early morning filled with excitement, all the way to the top. The day after and the day to see them. All artworks I’ve watched in books and read about, but not seen in real life – wow.

After a French, well-tasted breakfast at the hotel, we entered the metro, just outside the hotel. Through stations to an old station! After a couple of stations, we were home. Home of the impressionists’ house of artworks – Musée d’Orsay.

Musée d’Orsay is an art museum, inaugurated in 1886. Located in the 7th arrondissement. It’s a former railway station named Gare d’Orsay. The station was built in Beaux-Arts architecture between 1898 and 1900.

Jean-François Millet’s ‘The Gleaners’ (1857), showcasing peasant women gathering leftover grains in a rural landscape.

The queue of expectant visitors wound like a long train outside the station. Rising impressions like braking locomotives. Inside the walls, my expectations would be answered by oil on canvas and impressionists in a row on the walls.

Blocks had colored sections from red to green and grey. They resembled the colored room we entered in Versailles the day before. These sections were filled with artworks by the most famous artists in the mid-17th century. They featured these artworks instead of furniture from the baroque era.

To me, I felt like a child in a candy store. My favorite artists made my day. Artists like Van Gogh, Rodin, Gauguin, Renoir, Monet, and Jean-François Millet’s The Gleaners (1857) brought me joy.

Vincent van Gogh’s ‘The Bedroom’ (1889) is a vibrant depiction of the artist’s personal sanctuary. It showcases his unique use of color and form.

From side to side, we walked and looked closer at every painting. We turned around a Rodin after a Rodin. Some of his artworks (statues) were like rounding marks to the next section. Sad maybe but I’ll get to him later – another day.

More than one hour on floor one, and hungry for more – heading for The main course. Up two floors, by stairs on heavy feet to the most important part of the museum. The Impressionists – worth seeing. One painting caught our attention even more, but not only ours attention.

A large gathering of people in front of a painting we all know. With tears in my eyes, tears of happiness, I finally got to see it. Van Gogh’s – The Bedroom (1889). There were many more artworks from him. There was another artwork from one of my favorite artists. It was Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s Bal du moulin de la Galette (1876) 🔝.

Entrance to the Jardin des Plantes, a historic botanical garden and zoo in Paris.

After four hours at The Musée d’Orsay, we were so satisfied that the visit could be done once more. I had a hard time leaving Vincent behind me. I remember how long time I spent writing a script for a lecture about him at the university. It was around 2006, I think. 17 years ago “wow”.

From Monet’s garden on canvas, the day was changed to a walk in a real garden. Good food and French wine turned into a visit to the Jardin des Plantes. It’s a zoo and a botanical garden, founded in 1587. Since 1794, it belongs to France’s National Museum of Natural History.

More art, lots of art and lots of history there would be. Day 3 ended. Tired but satisfied with most things, full. The next day had to come faster, as the trains at the Gare d’Orsay station did once. Tickets were booked long ago for what was coming the next day. Guess what?

…Mona Lisa’s day

© Björn Blomqvist 2024-04-03
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3 April, 2024

City & Environment, 🇬🇧, History
𝟮 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Birthday!
The 5th of August 2023. A new day in the city of love. A new morning and new discoveries to be made. With pre-booked tickets and a reserved table at a restaurant, we were ready for today’s explorations. It was the day I turned fifty. It felt like I had just started to walk through all the pages in all the art books. I felt like I was exploring the history books I studied at the university.

Of course, yesterday’s exploration of the City of Love heightened the excitement. It was like walking among cathedrals and tracing in the footsteps of writers. The level of excitement was eleven on a scale of ten. The pages in the books were like the uplifting air under my feet. A journey among art, history, and French cuisine continued.

Paris is illuminated at dusk. This stunning view showcases the beauty of the City of Love. The Seine reflects this enchanting scene.

I took a slow walk through the books in my head. I was like a hungry animal hunting for the best the city can give. Versailles and Le Nôtre’s gardens, I blogged about twelve years ago (in Swedish). Trädgårdskonst och två kungliga slott, was the first historical and archaeological stop on my 50th birthday. What else I wish for on my birthday?

First of all, there were so many rooms to pass. There were different colors on the walls for different rooms in a row. It felt like walking in and out of a paint box. Then it was nice to wander indoors while the rain fell outside The Palace of Versailles¹. And there would be more.

The stunning exterior of the Palace of Versailles surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, showcasing the grandeur of French architecture.

We go through room after room and decoration after decoration. This journey leads us to the most important place in the castle: The Hall of Mirrors. Hundreds of people and the double if I’m counting the reflections in the mirrors. The Hall of Mirrors was built in 1678. At that time, the castle was the king’s residence. It is mentioned in Marie Antoinette’s diary.

The exquisite interior of the Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Versailles, showcasing its stunning architecture and ornate chandeliers.

André Le Nôtre, Louis XIV, Napoleon, Marie Antoinette and among others, lingered like an invisible smoke around the visitors.

Hungry, of course, but now for food. We had already reserved a table at ORE Ducasse at the Palace of Versailles. What did French cuisine have to offer? Fish dishes with white wine from the Loire Valley would satisfy our appetites. Grilled salmon and vegetables with béarnaise sauce—an unusual combination. But the wine was good.

The beautifully manicured gardens of Versailles, showcasing intricate landscaping under a cloudy sky.

Unlike the Italian restaurant yesterday, with nice staff and good service, it was more confusing when we got to ORE. The restaurant is in the name of Alain Ducasse, which holds three stars in the Michelin Guide. I had higher expectations. But something else uncorked that day: the sky. The rain fell like poured wine almost all day.

If there has to be a sun, it’s the sunshine from the Sun King’s aura. We took a long walk in the gardens. We listened to the sound of the rain. The falling water wasn’t for us. It was above and in the garden lakes for the gardens of Versailles that day.

The illuminated Eiffel Tower at night, a symbol of romance in the City of Love.

A castle is filled with hundreds of rooms. It also has a garden that never ends. It was replaced by another spectacular monument later that day. It lefts all the historical characters behind us. A trip by train back to Montparnasse and then the metro to 7th arrondissement.

The Eiffel Tower², of course. The goal was a glass of champagne, 330 meters (1,083 ft) in the air. However, the weather gods wanted something else. The top floor has to be closed for safety reasons. To travel in a packed elevator up to the second floor was high enough for me. I couldn’t look down without getting a little dizzy. But instead, I had someone’s eyes to stare deeply into. It’s the City of Love – remember!

One tower, two perspectives. My 50th birthday came to its end in the moment of darkness. There was no rain but it was a windy night. We looked out in the name of love. We looked up and tried to look down in all directions.

A captivating view from beneath the Eiffel Tower, showcasing its intricate ironwork against a blue sky.

A tired tower never sleeps, even as the heavy wind tried to lull it to sleep. For 4 minutes every hour, the tower flashed as a welcome beacon.” Welcome to the City of Love”. What if or how it could have happened, must the best place to be at, be just under the tower? Only look up. It’s a rectangular piece of metal and thousands of pieces of iron.

With hungry stomachs and weary feet, we made our way back to the hotel. It was too late to eat and too late to have fun. The hotel, located near Boulevard Saint-Germain in the 5th arrondissement (the Latin Quarter), became our savior.

The next day brought new adventures and an even greater hunger for exploration in the City of Love.

To be continued…

© Björn Blomqvist 2023-10-31
1. The Palace of Versailles was a royal palace from 1682 to 1789. It had a significant impact on French architecture, art, and also on Europe as a whole. So I got my battery of history and architecture charged ↩︎
2. The Tower is named after the engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose company designed and built the tower from 1887 to 1889. The local nickname of the tower is “La dame de fer” (French for “Iron Lady”) ↩︎
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31 October, 2023

🇬🇧
𝟭 An Art Journey in the City of Love – Writers’ Day
The 4th of August – on a plane. It was a red and white Boeing 737-800 from Norwegian. My excitement rose as high as the plane took off. I spent two expectant hours in the air between Stockholm and Paris. The landing at Charles de Gaulle Airport was calm and soft. My feet touched the ground in France for the 5th time. I have visited Languedoc, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur twice. I also visited Normandy before. This time, the day before my 50th birthday, I was in the City of Love. A week to remember!

A welcoming mural saying ‘Paris Vous Aime’ captures the essence of love and excitement upon arriving in Paris.

Who loves me? Of course, the city loves me “Paris Vous Aime”? The train station is near the airport. This is akin to Stockholm Arlanda Airport. You reach the airport from Central station by Arlanda Express. The 50 minute-trip had to come. Already at the airport, I could smell the scent of Paris. It was the scent of love and flavors from French cuisine. Exactly what I’ve expected and I was ready for more.

From 30 000 feet in the air to the underground, the train stopped at one of the metro stations. We was lucky that the train could stop on one of metro’s stations close to where we would be staying.

A view of the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral. It is currently under renovation. The cathedral showcases its stunning architecture against a blue sky in Paris.

Time to ascend to ground level again. With heavy bags and by easy steps up to the street. And… look what I’ve found. A well-recognized cathedral. I dropped the bag and with a hunchback and a slanting gaze, I saw it straight away – Notre Dame¹. Unfortunately, the cathedral was not open for visits, as it is still being renovated after the fire in 2019.

From having studied the cathedral’s architecture through university literature, it was an uplifting moment to see it in real life. I remember the difficult exam I was given on what characterizes different styles of architecture. I now experienced and felt my love for architecture, art, and everything French. This experience showed its impact for the rest of the week.

Aerial view showcasing the ongoing restoration works at Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris, summer 2021.

Maybe somewhere up in the tower, he stands – the one who will ring the bells. Quasimodo, where are you? The character from “The Hunchback of Notre-Dame,” you know. Maybe he wasn’t there that time. Couldn’t hear any sounds from the bells. An inner voice instead shouted “Esmeralda! Esmeralda, where are you!” Better to seek out the author behind the story. He must be somewhere in the city?

We ate pizza at an Italian restaurant on Rue de Pontoise before we landed at the hotel. We were two out-of-town tourists in one of the world’s most beautiful cities. It was good food, and both the staff and service were very nice! Near the restaurant, on Bd Saint-Germain, we found our hotel – ready for new adventures in the City of Love.

The Panthéon in Paris, showcasing its stunning neoclassical architecture and iconic columns.

Yes, I was ready to hunt for art, architecture, and many cultural experiences. The first day seemed to be a walk in the footsteps of the churches and cathedrals. He who wrote The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, as I mentioned earlier – we found him. In the Panthéon, we found him and many other famous people.

The Panthéon² with its neoclassical architecture is easy to see. Columns, a dome, and classical Corinthian capitals with an ancient look. Among all the buried writers in the Panthéon, Rousseau himself stands as a statue outside the building.

Statue of J.J. Rousseau, a renowned philosopher and writer, located in a vibrant Parisian square.

The journey continued on foot. Further cathedrals and churches were in focus, but mainly in the tracks of the authors. This time, a contemporary writer – Dan Brown. In 1646, the Roman Catholic Church of Saint-Sulpice was founded. The church is perhaps best known from the book The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown. Robert Langdon was there, and now so am I.

My research areas from university are in the same field as the character Professor Robert Langdon. My master’s thesis is an in-depth study of heraldry and club badges. Likewise, my bachelor’s thesis is on church architecture and religious symbols.

On this particular day, there was a service, so we had to sneak in and look around in silence. I hope the beggar was happy. He was sitting on the steps of the church. He got a few euros from us.

The Church of Saint-Sulpice, known for its neoclassical architecture and connections to literature, captured in the heart of Paris.

A long first day in the city of love gave me many impressions. I felt as if I were walking through the world of books and felt close to the authors. In the next episode of the journey in the City of Love, the architecture will continue to be important. This is mainly from a historical perspective and also for birthday celebrations.

Finally, a walk to the hotel on Bd Saint-Germain – same street and close to Café de Flore…

To be continued…

© Björn Blomqvist 2023-10-28
1. Built between 1163 and 1345 and designed by Maurice de Sully. A magnificent example of French Gothic architecture (1140-1500) ↩︎
2. The Panthéon was built in 1758 according to Jacques-Germain Soufflot’s designs. It was originally a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve of Paris. Since the French Revolution, it has been used as a mausoleum. Many prominent French citizens, including Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Emile Zola, Victor Hugo, Jean Moulin, and Marie Curie, are buried there ↩︎
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28 October, 2023

🇬🇧
Från det ena till det andra!
Efter lördagens konstrunda och massor av intryck, var det dags för nästa utställning, dagen efter. Denna gång en annorlunda utställning. En utställning som emellanåt flyttade och rörde på sig. Tillsammans med massor av folk och många äldre män i keps, var det flygfarkosterna som skulle bli sedda och utställda. Det var inte första gången, vare sig för mig eller arrangören. F 11 Museum brukar anordna en Flyg & Motordag på Stockholm Skavsta Airport varje år. Jag har flera gånger varit där. I år var det dags igen. Egentligen inget nytt under solen.

Förutom korv med bröd och korv med bröd eller varför inte korv med bröd överallt, gick jag runt i folkmassan för att bese de uppställda flygplanen, titta på modellplan och bläddra i gamla flygtidningar. Inte för att jag är nån entusiast numera, utan snarare för att det blir en sorts utställning när planen står där, uppradade. Med flygplan i luften var det svårt att fota (med en iPhone 6), men intressant att se dem göra konster i luften. Det var bara flygplan av äldre modell detta år. Förr var det mer modernare stridsflygplan med (Jas 39 Gripen m.fl), men inte i år. Vad sägs om en DH 100 Vampire, en Sk 16 eller Saab 91 Safir (i grupp) och en Spitfire såklart.

Efter några korvar med bröd och läsk, traskade jag vidare för att se det alla andra tittade på. Bland människor med blickarna i skyn, såg jag allt från ovan nämnda flygplan, till mer spektakulär luftakrobatik. Ett konstflygningsplan med vingar lika korta som bordsskivor, svischade förbi i hög fart. Rök kom ut där bak och loop efter loop flög den enligt ett väl inrepeterat program. Efter en lång dag bland flygmaskiner, kromade bilar och äldre män i keps, hade jag sett det mesta. En DC3:a en Yak-52:a och andra gamla flygplan jag inte vet namnen på.

Den enda plats jag inte besökte, var själva utställningshallen inne i museet. Nu undrar ni kanske varför jag inte var där? Svaret är det att jag har varit inne i hallen ett antal gånger förr. Jag har även flugit Viggen-simulatorn där inne. Det som är mest fascinerande, är att under all uppståndelse, pågår den reguljära trafikflygningen som vanligt. För ovanlighetens skull, finns bara en landningsbana att använda. Den längre av de två, är under omasfaltering. Så medan gamla och specialbyggda flygplan gör konster i luften, kommer så plötsligt en Boeing 737-800 från Ryanair eller en Airbus A320-200 från WizzAir från ingenstans och landar eller lyfter mot varmare breddgrader ✈

Sista maskinen som var uppe i luften var Blériot, men då var vi redan på väg därifrån. En lång dag hade satt sina spår i gamla leder. Jag hoppas kunna se planet i luften vid nästa uppvisning. Kanske redan nästa år, vad vet jag? Annars var det mycket asfalt och mycket gräs att slita skorna på. Som vanligt eller snarare som förra och förrförra året, inte så mycket nytt under solen.

© Björn Blomqvist 2015-09-01
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1 September, 2015

Cultural heritage, 🇸🇪, Sweden
Närhetsturism… ;)
För ovanlighetens skull, gjordes en utflykt med semesterkänsla, bara några mil hemifrån. Just Öster Malma har vi talat om många gånger att besöka. En restaurang med viltkött till buffén fanns också.

Öster Malma, en plats för avkoppling med restaurang och lokalproducerat viltkött.

Smakmässigt och prismässigt – ok. Inte så extremt gott, men man fick ju äta hur mycket man ville. Däremot är ju allt viltkött till maten lokalproducerat – direkt från gårdens slakteri. Vildsvin och älgar skulle beses. Herrgården/godset precis intill, hann vi inte besöka. Jag gjorde ingen närmare historisk koll, så några bilder får tala för sig själva.

Gårdsbutiken blev ett tillhåll medan regnet gjorde oss sällskap. Några vildsvin och elstängsel blev det sista innan avfärd och resa genom det sörmländska landskapet. Kyrka efter kyrka passerade vi utan att besöka någon av dem. Förutom stoppet vid Godishuset, blev Stjärnholm (4 km hemifrån!) den sista platsen innan hemkomst.

Interiören i gårdsbutiken på Öster Malma, med hyllor fyllda av lokala produkter och viltkött.

Entrén till Restaurang Öster Malma, med en djurhud på väggen som del av inredningen.

Just Stjärnholms slott har jag besökt otaliga gånger. Våra gäster har däremot inte gjort det. Så det är av den anledningen. Det jag är mest fascinerad av är skulpturparken intill. Jag passade på att ta några bilder.

Skulptur av en bok under ett litet tak i Stjärnholms skulpturpark.

En humoristisk skulptur av en man som står på huvudet i gräset, ett unikt inslag i skulpturparken vid Stjärnholms slott.

Skulptur av en portal i Stjärnholms slott, omgiven av grönska.

© Björn Blomqvist 2015-07-15
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15 July, 2015

Cultural heritage, 🇸🇪, Sweden
Bråviken i alla ära – men Femörehuvud levererar
På huvudet, två uppspända ögon som möter naturens estetiska kraft…

På Femörehuvud finns flera attraktioner. Det finns ett museum över kalla krigets dagar (Femörefortet). Det finns också ett naturreservat och ett konstnärstillhåll. Dessutom är det en vacker plats att vila ögonen på. Femörehuvud är mer eller mindre stadens pärla. Oxelösund – staden vid havet, orten med den vackra skärgården.

Välbesökt och välbevarat. Faktiskt en inspelningsplats (2009) – i den tyska långköraren Inga Lindström, är Femörehuvud ett måste för alla att få uppleva.

Jag höll hundkopplet med ena handen och mobilkameran med den andra. Bilderna fångades snabbt. De fångade mig i ett havskast av estetisk skönhet.

Ett kulturmöte som blev ett naturmöte med havsvågorna slående mot klippan, gjorde ingen skillnad. Lika tagen och lika begeistrad som vanligt gjorde jag mitt för att njuta av naturen och samtidigt dokumentera den.

En stilla havsutsikt vid Femörehuvud med mörka moln som speglar naturens skönhet.

Femörehuvuds karakteristiska fyr som står stolt vid havets kant.

© Björn Blomqvist 2014-08-17
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17 August, 2014

Atmosphere, 🇸🇪, History, Landscape, Sweden
A chance in Provence – 19/7 to 22/7 (2014)
På toppen av vad farkosten kan prestera, ses andra toppar vara relativt små. På 10 000 meters höjd färdas vi ovan moln och bergkedjor i kampen om att vara högst upp i skyn. Den kampen är redan vunnen. Flygplanet vinner den. Den bevingade farkosten – en flygande rocka från Ryanair, tar mark drygt tre timmar från start. Vingspetsarna vittnar om stabilitet i luften. I kabinen mullrar det. Men det besvärar inte passagerarna. Snötäckta bergstoppar reser sig långt under dem. De gör så i kampen mot molnens vita skimmer.

Rockan går mot botten, d.v.s. den landar mjukt på Marseilles flygplats. Inte förrän flygtrappan når dörren, kan den varma luften svepa sig om våra uppresta kroppar. På fransk mark lämnas farkosten i sticket. Snart är den utbytt mot en något mindre med fyra hjul. Den har även ett femte för att hålla händerna på. Hyrbilen må vara liten. Resan bland stora berg, stora fält och slingrande vägar öppnar en ny värld att utforska. En berg och dalbana i Provence med sikte på det stora med det lila och chansen att finna inspiration.

Den lilla byn Gordes, eller orten om man vill kalla den så, samlar något stort. Stora folksamlingar från stora bussar, vandrar nedanför bergsbyn och håller hårt i sina kameror. Det känns lika stort att hitta en plats att parkera på. Vi gör detsamma som alla andra gjort före oss. De kommer att göra det efter oss också. Ta foto efter foto i all oändlighet. Att trycka på knappen så att kameran går varm och batterier tar slut.

Vägarna är smala och till råga på det, avstängda nästkommande dag. Tour de France kommer till byn. Hurtiga spjuvers på två hjul ska tävla om vem som kommer först i mål. En etappseger ska hålla turisterna på avstånd den dagen och lämna plats för supportrar.

Vy från flygplansfönstret över moln och fjäll, med Ryanairs vinge synlig.

Vy över snötäckta bergstoppar och moln från ovan.

Vy över den medeltida byn Gordes, belägen på en klippa i Provence, med charmiga hus och omgivande grönska.

Väghänvisning för Tour de France 2014, med information om avstängd väg och tidpunkter.

Allt är fint, estetiskt och välbevarat sen historiens gång. Historiens vingslag har övertagit flygplanets vingar. Det är vackert och vägarna är ilka slingriga som en politikers svar på en ja/nej-fråga. Allt som svischar förbi skapar eftertanke. Snabbt hamnar man i filosofiska tankar. Eller så drömmer man sig bort som i en historisk roman. Man vill nästan gå i kloster. Dessutom finns det ett inte allt för långt bort.

Djupt inne i dalen, en färd på slingriga vägar i starkt nedförslut, reser sig Abbaye de Sénanque. Cistercienserklostret hade sin guldålder under 1200-talet. Pest och bränder har sårat dess charm. Inte förrän på 1900-talet har restaureringar av klostrets kulturhistoria gjorts. Det är inte stort i yta, men stort att beskåda. De lila fälten kastar sig över en med sin skönhet, doft och välordnade rader. Ränderna går inte ur, så att säga. Som doftande badrumstvål går man mellan raderna – och på klostrets skylt, läser jag emellan detsamma.

På låg växel och på höga motorvarv klättrar man uppåt igen. Det lila, eller violetta om man vill säga så, sitter fast som torkat färg på näthinnan. Bilden av lavendelfält täcker framrutan. Det gäller att hålla ögonen på vägen. Bilderna av de otroligt vackra fälten hinner knappt tyna bort innan nästa rejäla portion lavendel får bilen att stanna till.

En dragningskraft större än man tror, får bilen att fint ställa sig vid sidan av vägen. Över vägen man går – och detsamma, den friska doften får – dras man ner i det randiga landskapet. Den ljusbruna, torra och steniga jorden kontrasterar mot det lila i det stora. Två varma färger håller ett grepp om ögonen och i handen håller man kameran i ett lika hårt grepp. Det smattrar från knappen lika ofta som man i steget, surfar över de violetta vågorna.

Den sena kvällen ska bädda in en händelserik dag. Sova på saken är det inte att tala om. Sova för att orka. En förrätt på äventyret har gjort sitt. Bakom dörrar och fönster i villan kryper längtan fram. Låt mörkret föra tiden framåt i rask takt. Morgondiset ska visa vägen och morgonljuset föra oss framåt. De lila fälten i dalen nedanför växlar färg. Allt mörkare blir de genom nattljusets skimmer.

Efter frukost i blandad valör från frukostbordet, är magen fylld för nya strapatser. Med lavendeldalen bakom sig, reser man tillbaka i tiden. Medeltid, närmare bestämt. Den mörka perioden i historien besöks på på en gråmulen dag. Grå och imponerande reser sig Rocher du Cire (Vaxklippan). Den är längs vägen bort från medeltiden i Monieux – Gorges de la Nesque.

Den mörka, men ack så omskrivna epoken Medeltid, tar emot en med god mat. Det är dock inte med medeltida smaker. Istället är det en typisk måltid med rötterna i Provence. Lamm och ost finns såklart med på menyn. Högst upp i byn reser sig Saint Pierrekyrkan från 1100-talet, i romersk stil. De runda bågarna vittnar om just romersk stil. Den stil som föregick gotiken som är mer känd för sina spetsbågar och kryssvalv m.m.

Den medeltida byn övergår i modernare bebyggelser på vissa ställen. Det kan man ju inte frångå, då nutidens människor, gärna lever i sin samtid. Tre blir sex, om korrektheten står över upplevelsen. På menyn på restaurangen, blir tre rätter till sex. Jo sex… stycken såklart. En aptitretare före förrätt och en före desserten, plus en lite kaka till kaffet. Tre + tre helt enkelt.

På Les Lavandes, mitt på huvudgatan i byn, tyder mycket på en exklusive resaturang, men utan stjärnor. Efterrätten gick inte av för hackor! Ett hack med skeden och den söta såsen rinner som lava ut ur den höga bakelsen.

Snurrigt värre kan nog sägas om resterande resa. En berg och dalbana ligger utdragen framför oss. Till sin lättnad, styrs inte vagnen av andra. Vagnen rör sig sakta framåt längs serpentiner och snirkliga vägbanor. Cyklister och branta stup fraktar hjärtat upp i halsgropen. Väl hemma i Sault faller det tillbaka. Som en sten som lättar från detsamma. Hembyn går inte heller för hackor – också den med medeltida anor. Åskan mullrar i takt med regnet som smattrar mot hotellverandan. En ny dag väntar och den med sol i sikte och höga berg att bestiga.

En uppförsbacke i dubbel bemärkelse ligger framför en. Uppstigning med tunga ögon byter skepnad när en senare stigning på nästan 2000 meter väntar. Den tunga kroppen som restes från sängkanten är lika tung som stigningen mot toppen av Mont Ventoux. Tung uppförsbacke och dimman liggande tätt på toppen, gör resan nedför allt enklare. Den branta backen nedför slingrar sig som serpentinvägar så att bromsarna går varma.

Upprepande tramp på bromspedalen gör att skivorna osar bränt. Samtidigt byter skivan i stereon spår. Bromsskivorna glöder när stereon spelar heavy metal. Cyklister som trotsar uppförsbacken, ska likaså rulla nedför. Dimman gör sikten dålig. Dimljus och låg fart på den plåtbeklädda farkosten “Punto” – ett säkerhetstänk som lyckas väl.

Tvåhjulsentuiasterna blir bara fler och fler. Plötsligt reser sig ett sorts cykel-Mecka upp från Provence vackra landskap. Cyklister tycks vallfärdar till staden Malaucène. Ett mecka för cyklister att kanske meka med cykeln på. Lavendelfälten är bortbytta för länge sedan. Allt lila och violetta förvandlas till grönt. Lavendel blir till vin i distrikten som ligger närmast. Skyltarna blir fler och fler och vinfälten likaså. Vingård efter vingård svischar man förbi.

Ett stopp här och där, men utan vinprovning. Det räcker att ratten är rund. Vägarna svänger tillräckligt för att låta farkosten “Punto” rattas med noll promille i kroppen. Detta gäller förstås chauffören, medan andra är undantagna. Den cykelburna staden bjuder på kultur, precis som i övriga städer. En kyrka och ett slott står på tur. Mitt i byn de står, dit vi går. Så som kyrkor är utformade och hur de vanligtvis ser ut invändigt, var detta inget undantag. En översikt från slottsruinen räcker för att se de charmiga i byns utformning.

Cykelbutik i Malaucène, ett populärt stopp för cyklister som besöker Mont Ventoux.

Vignobles de Caractère i Vaucluse, Frankrike, visar vinproducenternas engagemang och hantverk.

Runda hjul, runda tunnor och gott om runda flaskor ses försvinna bakom en. Nya runda ting ligger framför. Kolonner, teatrar och en runda på stan, så att säga. Det är precis i skarven mellan två epoker. De är delade av vatten med en bro från äldsta epoken av de två. Vaison-la-Romaine står på menyn och det smakar därefter. Kryddor från antiken, toppat med medeltiden och bismak av turistmagnetism, utforskas byn med hopp om att finna historiens vingslag. Ingenting visar på besvikelse, men gott om intryck.

Ruinens brant är ett faktum. Så många objekt, så mycket sten. “Den där bron från romartiden – var är den då?”. Det blir tyst en stund, sen kom svaret. “Du står ju på den!”. “Ojdå!”.

Fullt på kontot – det historiska, gapar batterierna i kameran efter laddning – nu får det vara nog. Icke sa Nicke. “Jag kom, jag såg, jag…” finner ännu mer av antikens spår. Inte bara en utan flera platser. Inte bara en utan flera teatrar. Ett stenkast längre bort, ett kast med en antik byggkloss (kolonn), finns ett gigantiskt område. Områdets historia är densamma som innan. Snabba fötter över latriner, gröna ytor och vackra dammar och fontäner, passerar antikens romarrike förbi och faller lika fort.

476 minuter senare kliver vederbörande in i nästa epok. Enligt vissa historiska källor, börjar medeltiden där antiken tar slut, dvs någonstans mellan år 476 e.kr. och 800-talet, beroende på vilken del av Europa det gäller. Sveriges medeltid startade inte förrän på 1000-talet efter vikingatiden t.ex.

Medeltida torg möter borg när teatern mäter sig med ateljé efter ateljé. Längs smala gränder samlas konstnärerna, sida vid sida. Målare efter målare får sig en måltid vart hen än vänder sig. I brant lutning är bergets stigning en mäktig uppgift att ta sig an. Obeväpnade turister tar sig sakta upp mot försvarsborgen. Kanske en lättare match på tiden när det begav sig. Fullt utrustade fiender med armborst, spikklubbor och slitna läderskor nötte säkert berget lika ömt som samtidens mjuka promenadskor. Strapatsen avslutas när magar ropar efter anfall mot gastronomin.

I valet och kvalet inmundigas mat på fat i annan stad. Mörkret som sakta faller, bäddar in en växtrik uteservering i Carpentras. Staden bjuder inte på något av intresse. Bara mat och bara dryck håller en kvar. Chez Serge vars specialitet är vin, hälsar oss välkommen med en gest som är väl bekant vid detta laget. “Välkommen! Den här vägen”. Lövtunna tryffelskivor och olivolja som aptitretare hjälper föga. Ju mer mörkret faller, ju längre har väntan varit. Till slut en mage mättad och hemfärd gör en lättad.

Ett kulturmöte, sent att glömma var till ända. Vad som sen ska hända är en annan sak. En bil och en växelspak i riktning mot landets andra stad. Hemåt man for men ville gärna stanna kvar. Inspiration, en lyckad tur som nu ska förvaltas, men hur?

© Björn Blomqvist 2014-08-11
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11 August, 2014

🇸🇪
En stirrande blick och stenhårda ytor
Längs sträckan mellan punkt A och B, en grådaskig yta jag tittar på. Asfalten framför mig lockar min uppmärksamhet. Jag inser att jag nu ska lyfta blicken. Se allt det andra runt omkring mig. Min blick lämnar den stenhårda ytan under mina fötter. Det tar inte många sekunder så har jag en ny stenhård yta under, över och bredvid mig.

Tunnelns oskyldiga textur av stenhårt material har fått hjälp att tala till mig. Sprejburkarnas språkrör sänder budskap till oss som passerar igenom. Tags, klotter eller konst? Om det nu kan kallas konst, är en subjektiv upplevelse. Jag har nämnt det i ett tidigare inlägg om vad som är konst och inte konst. Det är generellt sett ingenting vi kan definiera, det är bara en personlig upplevelse.

Lika svart som konturen som bildar ansiktet av en uggla, lika svart är ugglans symbolik. Ugglan som är en nattlig varelse, symboliserar otur och själsligt mörker. Ugglan kommer ned till jorden om natten och äter de dödas själar och det kraftigt hoande ljudet och den stirrande blicken ses som ett förebud om död och olyckor.

Ett hörn rundas av, likaså min promenad.

Björn Blomqvist 2014-04-18
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18 April, 2014

Aesthetic reflections, Aesthetics, Atmosphere, City & Environment, Contemplation, 🇸🇪, Personal reflection, Sweden
Kulturmöte i lusthuset
Det blev trots allt ett kulturmöte igen. Jag och ytterligare tre personer från styrelsen i Oxelösunds Teaterförening var på Pelles Lusthus i Nyköping ikväll. Vi mötte andra kulturföreningar och kulturutövare. Vi lyssnade på en föreläsning om arrangörsutveckling och om utbildningssatsningar i ämnet.

Vi och andra föreningar fick möjlighet att under fikapausen prata och umgås. Vi diskuterade hur man når ut med sitt budskap. Vi pratade också om hur man ska värva nya medlemmar. Det och mycket mer diskuterades under kaffet. Mycket kretsade kring marknadsföring, styrelseteknik och samarbeten. Det var mycket givande och det blev mer grupparbete än mingel, vilket är en fördel.

Kaffet var gott, smörgåsen likaså. Vad mer kan jag säga? Jo några bekanta ansikten var ju där och likaså gamla arbetskamrater. Det gjorde kvällen än mer lyckad.

Björn Blomqvist 2014-04-09
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9 April, 2014

Cultural heritage, 🇸🇪, Sweden
Dagen efter – veckan före
Kära dagbok… Nää, glöm det. Det var bara en illusion. Dagen efter det intensiva konstmötet känner jag mig lite “off”. Jag känner mig som en katt som ser en gurka och tror att det är en orm. Jag har också haft en lång repetition i att behärska ett sjungande teaterstycke. Vem visste att böcker kunde sjunga bättre än jag?

Egentligen vill jag hoppa på det igen. Ett nytt konstmöte under lunchen, såklart. Lunch är ju den enda måltid som vi alla genuint kan kalla ett konstverk! Tiden flög förbi snabbare än min lunchpromenad. Under den jagade jag både mätstickor och inspiration. Jag medger att dagens repetition i scenkonstens anda är ett konst- och kulturmöte. Det är värt att släpa med sig som en tyngre ryggsäck!

Efter hela dagen i replokalen kan jag erkänna att både hungern och tröttheten gjort en grand entrée. Tack och lov är de bara skuggor av den fantastiska helhetsupplevelsen. Är du ärligt talat, vem behöver mat när man har musik? Så kul, spännande och lärorikt har repetitionen varit. Jag nästan glömde att jag är en människa med grundläggande behov. Musikal är den saknade strängen på min lyra, så nu kör vi – låt maten vänta!

Det känns som strängen är på sin plats i en gigantisk ensemble. Ja, det är mer rätt än en katt på en solig fönsterbräda! Trivsamt i gruppen, njuter jag av varje stund, som om jag fått gratis snacks på en filmkväll.

Som amatörskådespelare i snart 18 år har jag aldrig vågat mig på musikal. Jag har mer eller mindre bara spanat in dem på scen och genom popcornslungan på film. Orsaken? En massiv tro på att jag bara kan agera och, om jag har tur, kanske snubbla mig genom någon danssteg. Sång? Snarare ett mysterium som skulle få en katts ångest på höga toner. En liten talroll är min glansroll i uppsättningen. Den är liten men ack så viktig. Jag menar, någon måste ju stå där och förvirra publiken!

På heder och samvete. Det lovas nu att nya, intressanta konst- och kulturmöten ska poppa upp här oftare än man hinner säga “bajskorv”! Egenskrivna alster och rapporter från min manusvärld ska också bli fler. Jag har hört att de har en tendens att föröka sig som kaniner!

En vecka fram i tiden sitter jag säkert här igen och bloggar. Jag har lovat mig själv att inte låta min skrivcrisis ta över. Att glömma att ha roligt under skrivprocessen är som att leta efter inspiration i en mörk grotta. Det är utan ficklampa, onödigt komplicerat och lite skrämmande!

Björn Blomqvist 2013-10-20

Bilder från gårdagens lunchpromenad:
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20 October, 2013

🇸🇪, Personal reflection, Theater, Thougths
Händer, linjer och Ländler
Utsikt över byggnaden vid Bryggeriet i Nyköping, nära replokaler och konstgallerier.

Vid Bryggeriet i Nyköping finns fantastiska replokaler där jag samarbetar med en otroligt begåvad ensemble. Vi repeterar med full energi och glädje till den underbara musikalen Sound of Music. Jag har en liten roll i denna magiska föreställning. Jag njuter oerhört av att få vara en del av detta kreativa äventyr!

Mittemot replokalen frodas inte bara ett, utan hela tre konstgallerier! Som konstvetare brinner jag för dessa kreativa rum. Hungrig som en björn, ivrigt vandrande bland konstverken, rörde jag mig snabbare än vanligt. Varje alster var som ett stopptecken. Inga genvägar alls, bara ren och skär fascination.

I Åsa Kvissberg (måleri och grafik) var de intensiva och uttrycksfulla linjekonturerna som fångade en i steget. Dessa linjer nästan dansade över dukarna. Alstren, fyllda av människor och händer, skapar en fängslande dynamik. Motiven kan verka abstrakta vid första anblick, men de bär på en djup föreställande kraft som väcker ens inre känslor.

Kanske inte helt hänförd av alstren, men inte helt utan betydelse. Kanske ligger inte den här konsten i min personliga smak, då jag ofta dras till historiska verk snarare än samtidskonst. Men mitt hjärta kunde inte låta bli att tolka dem i en surrealistisk kontext. Det är ett spel av vitt och svarta linjekonturer. De lyfter figurer som ansikten, poserande kroppar och händer. Dessa är strategiskt placerade för att skapa en magisk helhet.

Alstren är mestadels måleri, men det finns även några spännande verk i grafik. Detta kan verkligen väcka nyfikenhet om att förstå om det som presenteras är tillräckligt imponerande. Temat i verken är konsekvent och skapar en intressant röd tråd genom utställningen. En gemensam aspekt är den konstnärliga handlingen att låta färgen rinna, vilket ger en fascinerande dynamik till verken.

Motiv av spill och dräll med akrylen erbjuder en kreativ och lekfull känsla. Även om dessa element oftast är i blått eller grönt, ger det en härlig gemenskap och enighet i färgvalen. Kombinationen av blått, grönt, gult och de svartvita människokropparna tillför en fin variation som inbjuder till reflektion. Det blir verkligen en unik upplevelse av dessa konstverk tillsammans!

Angående detaljer och symboler, så vill jag inte ge nån direkt beskrivning. Det är som att försöka förklara varför katter tycker om att jaga snören! Magen kurrade som en besviken tiger. Det fanns i alla fall djup och kontrast i motiven. Men som sagt, de var för röriga.

Björn Blomqvist 2013-10-12
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12 October, 2013

Aesthetic reflections, Art gallery, Contemplation, 🇸🇪, Museum visit, Theater, Thougths, Visual culture
Nygammalt kulturmöte
I och med detta kulturmöte hamnade jag på Sörmlands museum och Kungstornet, vilket var nostalgiskt. Det kändes som att återvända till en gammal skola där man ser spöken av gamla kollegor. Ingenting har förändrats, vilket känns tryggt men lite skrämmande. Några av mina kollegor är fortfarande kvar.

Jag beslutade mig för att delta i en stadsvandring som handlade om hus på östra sidan av Nyköpingsån. Jag ville se om jag kunde hitta en byggnad som kändes bekant. Även hus har sina hemligheter! Med 28 personer, inklusive mig, var vi en grupp nyfikna (och kanske lite trötta) turister.

Trafiken var den största plågan med denna vandring. Det kändes som att försöka köra en 10-mils rally på en cykelbana! Tunga fordon for förbi som om de trodde att de ägde gatorna. Bullret från trafiken var öronbedövande, som en kaotisk orkester av motorer!

Björn Blomqvist 2013-07-25
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25 July, 2013

City & Environment, 🇸🇪, History, Personal reflection
1306, 1307 vad tror du?
I en ytterligare källgranskning uppstår det lite konfunderingar. Jag har för skojs skull studerat 6 källor som skildrar Håtunaleken (1306-?) och historien om Nyköpingshus. Håtunaleken år 1306 är den händelse som är en av de utlösande faktorerna till Nyköpings gästabud år 1317. Idag konstaterade jag att en till källa ger en annan bild än de fyra samstämmiga källorna.

Jag nämnde i ett tidigare inlägg en intressant händelse. Enligt en av källorna (Medeltida borgar del 3) befann sig kung Birger i Håtuna år 1306. Drottning Märta (Margrethe) av Danmark var också där. De tillfångatogs av kungens två yngre bröder. Hertigarna Erik och Valdemar tillfångatog dem och därefter fängslades de på Håtuna Kungsgård. Däremot berättar 4 samstämmiga källor att paret fördes till Nyköpingshus och fängslades där.

Kruxet i allt detta är att broschyren om Nyköpingshus ges ut av Statens Fastighetsverk (SFV). Den påstår att fängslandet ägde rum i Håtuna. Den säger också att Håtunaleken utspelade sig år 1307 och ingenting annat.

Dessa iakttagelser är kanske onödigt vetande eller lite nördigt. Men det är viktigt att kunna ge en så korrekt information som möjligt till museibesökarna. Jag personligen tror på teorin att bröderna först förde kungaparet från Håtuna till Stockholm. De blev stoppade där. Istället valde de att fängsla kungen och hans gemål drottning Märta på Nyköpingshus. Den teorin kan utrönas i 4 av de 6 källorna jag studerat. Dessutom har samtliga källor sin primära källa i Erikskrönikan.

Björn Blomqvist 2012-04-09
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9 April, 2012

🇸🇪
Tillfällig källkritisk granskning
Idag har jag läst och repeterat historisk fakta om Nyköpingshus och Kungstornet där jag arbetar som guide och museivärd. Jag har två tidigare historieböcker (källor) att tillgå som har kopplingar till museet och den interna guideutbildningen. Men jag har ytterligare en källa jag ville undersöka ur ett källkritiskt perspektiv. Den källan är tredje bandet i serien om Medeltida Borgar.

Det är nu som det uppstår förvirringar. Källan är otydlig på vissa ställen. För det första framgår det att hertig Karls Kungstorn anlades på 1550-talet, trots att hertigen inte kom till staden förrän år 1568 (18 år gammal). De övriga källorna säger att slottsbygget startade i början av 1570-talet. Enligt källorna för guidematerialet byggde Gustav Vasa (under 1540-talet) ett av sina tre kanontorn på platsen där Kungstornet sedermera uppfördes.

I samma stycke i den granskande källan nämns det att i byggnaden (dvs. Kungstornet) var det uppfostringsanstalt, dårhus, fattighus och landshövdingsresidens mm. Det som förvirrar är att alla dessa olika verksamheter var belägna i olika byggnader inom slottsområdet, vilket inte framgår i bildtexten. Likaså berättar källan att i samband med Håtunaleken år 1306 fängslades Kung Birger på Håtuna Kungsgård, medan museets egen litteratur säger att kungen transporterades till Nyköpingshus och fängslades där eftersom hertig Erik innehade Nyköpingshus mellan åren 1302-1304 och 1305-1310.

Nu kan man ju i och för sig anta att alla tre böckerna är sekundära källor där alla bygger på den primära källan Erikskrönikan. Av den anledningen kan missuppfattning och fria tolkningar ske. Hursomhelst vill jag bara peka på skillnaden mellan å ena sidan två samstämmiga verk kontra den nyinskaffade boken.

Utifall detta blogginlägget och källbeskrivningen skapar konfunderingar kan jag varmt rekommendera ett besök på Nyköpingshus och Kungstornet i sommar. Via information, sakkunnig personal och guidade turer fås en ytterligare bild kring turerna med Kungstornet och dess historia, tillkomst, upprustning och ombyggnad och mycket annat intressant.

Björn Blomqvist 2012-04-02

(Photo by iPhone: Björn Blomqvist)
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2 April, 2012

🇸🇪
En kungaskiss och en historieskrivning
Kungamålare, kompanister och andra ledsagar oss längs Nyköpingsån. Idag fick jag uppleva Nyköpings historia på ett teatralt och underhållande sätt, tillsammans med historiska figurer från staden. Vi fördes tillbaka i tiden genom upplevelser ur Nyköpings rika historia.

Duktiga skådespelare ger en fängslande och humoristisk skildring av Nyköpings historia, från 1600-talet till 1900-talets “utstämpling”. Årets upplaga av de dramatiserade vandringarna längs Nyköpingsån är lika imponerande, om inte mer, än förra året. Tack vare skickligt skådespeleri, engagemang och autentiska kläder leds vi genom historien med entusiasm. En skicklig regi får oss att glömma både tid och rum.

För närvarande är den enda tid och plats som existerar den som utspelar sig framför oss. Den transporterar oss till spelets tidsperiod. Gestalterna, som först är stilla som dockor, kommer till liv och bjuder oss på en humoristisk och tidsenlig historiebeskrivning. Jag rekommenderar varmt denna dramatiserade vandring längs Nyköpings stoltaste farvatten. Som SN:s artikel på kultursidan den 1 juli uttrycker det: ”Sällan har en timslång promenad varit så underhållande”.

Björn Blomqvist 2011-07-03
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3 July, 2011

Atmosphere, Contemplation, 🇸🇪, History, Theater
Trädgårdskonst och två kungliga slott
När våren spirar och sommaren närmar sig, observerar jag tomtägare flitigt syssla i sina trädgårdar. Detta väcker min reflektion kring trädgårdskonstens fascinerande historia. Jag tänker särskilt på den stil som uppstod under 1600-talet. Min insikt om denna stil har jag förvärvat genom mina studier i konstvetenskap vid universitetet. Det är intressant att notera hur under medeltiden och renässansen trädgårdarnas praktiska funktioner prioriterades över deras estetiska värde.

Men på 1600-talet och under barocken fick trädgårdarna en estetisk betydelse och blev mer integrerade med byggnaderna. På konstvetenskapen lärde vi oss om de utmärkande dragen hos barockträdgårdar. Vi studerade också de framstående trädgårdsarkitekterna i Europa under denna period. Enligt min ödmjuka mening är två av de mest kända och vackra barockträdgårdarna belägna i Sverige och Frankrike.

Drottningholms slottsträdgård, en storslagen barockträdgård i Sverige, bär på en kunglig magi som förbinder den med en annan berömd trädgård. Jag minns med glädje mitt besök där för några år sedan; det var som att kliva in i en dröm. Denna juvel, vars praktfulla utseende återupprättades på 1960-talet av mästerverk som Tessin d.y. och Johan Hårleman, förtrollar besökare med sin uniformitet och elegans. Trädgårdens design, en manifestation av 1600-talets stil, flödar med barockens grandeur. Med en parterr fylld av magnifika rankmönster och symmetriskt placerade växter är denna plats beundransvärd. Dess fängslande fontäner inspirerar alla som besöker den.

Drottningholms trädgårdsarkitektur lyser av inspiration från det franska mästerverket signerat André Le Nôtre. Trädgården, med sin prydliga och symmetriska utformning, har en central gångväg/mittaxel som harmoniskt speglar sig på båda sidor. Längre ut kan man upptäcka de unika sidorna om mittgången. Dessa sidor är ändå arrangerade med en vacker symmetri. Detta arrangemang ger en känsla av balans och skönhet i varje vrå.

André Le Nôtre är mest känd för att ha skapat barockens två främsta trädgårdar: Vauxe-le-Vicomte och Versailles. Just Versailles trädgård är den som verkligen utmärker sig som ett bevis på Kung Sols extravagans och rikedom. På 1600-talet lät Kung Ludvig XIV (Kung Sol) Le Nôtre anlägga denna imponerande parkanläggning och trädgård. Le Nôtre samarbetade dessutom med Louis Le Vau och Charles Le Brun vid skapandet av Vauxe-le-Vicomte.

Björn Blomqvist 2011-05-09
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9 May, 2011

Art history, Atmosphere, 🇸🇪, History, Landscape
Två symboliska höjdare och en stad
Oxelösund, en stad vars själ vibrerar i takt med sina monument, bjuder på en fascinerande dialog mellan tradition och modernitet. Sankt Botvids kyrka har en båkformad siluett. Den reser sig som ett ledstjärna för sjöfarare. Kyrkan är en symbol för stadens rika kust- och seglartraditioner. Denna moderna byggnad är uppförd i cement med flyttbara bänkar.

Den bryter mot traditionella normer genom att placera porten i öster. Detta sker som en anpassning till platsens begränsningar, men är samtidigt ett djärvt statement. Kyrkorummets korsformade utrymme, dominerat av korset ovanför mittpunkten, skapar en känsla av andlighet och gemenskap.

I kontrast till kyrkans andliga symbolik står “Ståltheten”, ett monument vars namn i sig bär på en dubbeltydighet. Med sitt “å” istället för ett “o” hyllar det inte bara Oxelösunds stolthet över sin stålindustri. Det hyllar även det material som monumentet är konstruerat av – stål, stadens livsnerv. Beläget nära fiskehamnen, liknar “Ståltheten” en stol med rörliga armstöd, mänskliga armar som sträcker sig mot himlen. Den är en symbol för en bekväm sits. Dessutom är den en plats att vila på. Samtidigt manifesterar den stolt staden som en stålstad, formad och smidd av stål.

Tillsammans skapar dessa monument en dynamisk bild av Oxelösund. Det är en stad där tradition och modernitet möts. Här förenas havet och stålet. Stoltheten över det förflutna och tron på framtiden går hand i hand. Det är en stad som bjuder in till reflektion. Den inbjuder till analys. Framför allt erbjuder den en passionerad upplevelse av dess unika karaktär.

©️ Björn Blomqvist 2011-03-01
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1 March, 2011

Aesthetic reflections, Aesthetics, Architecture, Atmosphere, City & Environment, Contemplation, 🇸🇪, Landscape, Personal reflection, Sweden, Visual culture